Lemon has been a nice addition to the climbing scene in Durango. This scenic little canyon lies to the north of Lemon Reservoir and is split by the Florida River. The rock is a mildly coarse and fractured granite that makes for a nice contrast to the sandstone and limestone that characterizes most of the climbing around town. Routes are found on both the East Side and West Side of the river and can require different approaches (depending on water level). Most of the climbs are protected by bolts, but some require gear. Climbing has been going on at Lemon for several years now, but there is still development occurring. New routes are being established on both sides of the canyon. A 70 meter rope can be useful for lowering off some of the longer climbs.
Probably the best season is fall. It is possible to chase the shade, depending on the time of day, which makes climbing at Lemon in the summer months nice as well. During much of the spring and winter the canyon can be wet and dirty from runoff.
From the intersection of CR250 and Florida Road (Bread), follow Florida Road east for about 12 miles. Stay left at a signed intersection and continue on CR243 for about 5 more miles to reach a gate at the north end of Lemon Reservoir. For specific directions on how to approach the cliffs, see East Side and West Side descriptions.
Climb Brady's Route through the undercling/lieback at the top of the corner. Instead of moving back left to the finishing headwall of Brady's, bust right along the prominent, arching seam. Utilize non-positive handholds and frustrating feet to get across the slightly overhanging wall. At the end of the traverse, squeeze the "Sand Dollar" crimp and deadpoint with all you've got into the vertical seam on your way to the anchors.This is definitely a major line on Lemon's E...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Does anyone have information on the two projects on the main face of the East Side. One traverse hard right off of Brady's Route and follows a prominent, arching seam. The other climbs straight up off the ledge directly above Dirt Track to the same anchor. Has anyone been trying these, or has either been redpointed? The one off the ledge has an old tag that is sun-bleached white making me think it is someone's very old (maybe abandoned) project.
The bolts leading right from Brady's were installed by Jared Ogden a few years ago. I don't know how much work they put into climbing it though, or much else for that matter. Looks pretty hard.
The other line of bolts is definitely a great line. Jim Symans bolted it back in the Lemon heyday. I have toyed with it, really hard for sure, maybe 13+ or so. You should work on those, get 'em done. I'll give you a belay, man.
It should be known that this area's warm-ups are HORRIBLY sandbagged. Even the guidebook puts the grades of warm-ups 1, 2, and 3 well above the suggested grades on here. Also, the bolting on the first three routes could be considered dangerous. A blown clip on any of these at the third bolt would most likely result in a groundfall. The climbing at this area is fun and interesting, but I do not recommend following the written guides on here as they may put you in dangerous territory.
Todd, you say not to use hostility yet you threaten some poor unfortunate soul with a bb gun. Is that what you do in Ignacio, hunt for the greatest game? Anyway, we top-roped and free-soloed most of the easy routes decades ago making those who equipped the routes here the actual perpetrators. Hunt and sodomize, but witch hunts are ignorant and outlandish.
Hey Ian, I just climbed that route today. I hadn't seen it before, so decided to check it out. Great line, super fun moves, and like you said, it will get better the more it is climbed. That prow is a cool feature, I'm surprised it hasn't been bolted before now. I'd give it a 5.10 rating. Thanks for putting it up. I'd recommend this climb as a must do for people coming to the crag. Thanks again.
The new climb that was put up next to Bonzai is great addition to the west side climbs at Lemon. There are definitely some tricky spots, but the overall movement on the route is great. Once this route cleans up, it will be even better. I would say that the route is on the hard 5.10 side, and probably would be considered 5.10c or 5.10d. I would encourage everyone to get on this route if you are in the area.