Lemmon Meringue 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | JSt, EFR, Gier Hundal, Aliex Capdevila |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall |
| Submitted By: | Jimbo on Oct 10, 2010 |
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Description Steep jugs leads to thin crux at the top. Great climbing all the way.
Location On Raven A. Hike down past Murray Wall. Raven A forms the second gully on the downhill side of Murray Wall. Boulder up, behind and onto a huge chock stone in the Gully. Both Layer Cake and Lemmon Meringue start off the chock stone. Lemmon Meringue is the right route.
Protection Bolts, Chains
| Comments on Lemmon Meringue |
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 11, 2010
| This climb is "bakerized" at the top. In other words the bolts were placed in a manner that discourages pulling on to the lower angle slab to the right and keeps you on the steeper face. Once you commit to the moves to clip the last bolt pulling on to the slab would be hard to do. If you pull on to the low angle face the entire route is 10+. Climbing the slab means you will not be clipping the last bolt which makes for a long run to the anchors. The forced finish has fun moves and leaves the OS,RP or flash in doubt to the anchors. Gotta love that. |
By Aleix
Oct 12, 2010
| True, it's like being forced to spell complicated names while you could just leave them out of the FA list. |
By Jimbo
Oct 15, 2010
| Why, Aleix I don't know of what you speak. |
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