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The Ravens
Routes Sorted
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Block Party S 
Capillary Attraction S 
El Curvo S 
Epic Commander T 
Hails Bails T 
Hotshot S 
If You Bolt It They Will Come S 
Layer Cake S 
Lemmon Meringue S 
Lightning Streaks T 
Luke Slingwalker T 
MoMo Buttress S 
On A Wing And A Prayer S 
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SR-71 (Blackbird) S 
Swing Set S 

Lemmon Meringue 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: JSt, EFR, Gier Hundal, Aliex Capdevila
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: Jimbo on Oct 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Steep jugs leads to thin crux at the top. Great climbing all the way.

    Location 

    On Raven A. Hike down past Murray Wall. Raven A forms the second gully on the downhill side of Murray Wall. Boulder up, behind and onto a huge chock stone in the Gully. Both Layer Cake and Lemmon Meringue start off the chock stone. Lemmon Meringue is the right route.

    Protection 

    Bolts, Chains


    Comments on Lemmon Meringue Add Comment
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    By 1Eric Rhicard
    Oct 11, 2010

    This climb is "bakerized" at the top. In other words the bolts were placed in a manner that discourages pulling on to the lower angle slab to the right and keeps you on the steeper face. Once you commit to the moves to clip the last bolt pulling on to the slab would be hard to do. If you pull on to the low angle face the entire route is 10+. Climbing the slab means you will not be clipping the last bolt which makes for a long run to the anchors. The forced finish has fun moves and leaves the OS,RP or flash in doubt to the anchors. Gotta love that.
    By Aleix
    Oct 12, 2010

    True, it's like being forced to spell complicated names while you could just leave them out of the FA list.
    By Jimbo
    Oct 15, 2010

    Why, Aleix I don't know of what you speak.