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Sun Spot Crags
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Lein On Me 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Robert McLeod, Lein Tung, EMk,EFR
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 755
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Mar 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Lein on Me (March 2014)

Description 

Start the same as Euro-lite but head right around roof. Hard start then the rest of the route eases off but not too much.

Location 

On the Brown Dwarf which is on the way to the Heliosphere. The climb starts to the right of the right-angling crack that starts about 15 feet above a bolted hard slab See The Light 5.11.

Protection 

Bolts


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By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 30, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route still has some flexible flakes on it at the top, so don't go yarding your way up it. Interesting moves on this one.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 5, 2007

Would second to be careful on this..I broke off a hold near where you make an awkward clip under a roof..If you fell there, there's no shortage of sharp stuff to land on a few feet below..And it's pretty low angle so you might not clear it..
By Jimbo
Feb 7, 2007

I snapped a hold pulling onto the face above the bulge, and was spinning around trying to spot my landing when my right hand nabbed another hold which allowed my to regain my footing and avoid the drop over the bulge.
I could have easlily chaffed a knee or broke a nail.
When in doubt, climb softly!!
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 7, 2007

Hey no 8+ is worth spoiling a good manicure haha :-)
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Dec 8, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Yes the 1st move is probably like 5.8+/9- but it the 1st move off the ground so IDK if it counts. The rest is 5.8. The "crux" (other than getting off the ground) is just after the clip on the underside of the roof. FUN FUN FUN!