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Tatooine
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Force, The S 
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That's Not A Lightsaber S 
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Triumphal Arch S 

Leia's Leash 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 135'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Perin Blanchard 09 May 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,397
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on May 9, 2009

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Perin Blanchard arriving at the short, shallow dih...

Description 

In a location with amazing views and a feeling of great exposure, climb 135 feet through several distinct layers of limestone including several small roofs. Big holds, little holds, and at least one pocket (right where you want it, too). Climb it in one long pitch, or split it up into two pitches.

Start on a small, ugly pedestal and climb through some rough, gray limestone. At a broken ledge the rock changes to brown and gets a bit smoother. Climb up through a short, smooth dihedral onto a sloping ledge with chain anchors. Belay here, or continue up if climbing the line as a single pitch.

Head up and left through a lighter-colored, harder layer of rock that looks almost like marble in places. Arrive at a light gray layer with small holds and work your way through the intimidating, slightly overhanging terrain and over the first small roof.

Continue up a short section of darker gray, lower-angled rock, pull two more roofs on large holds, and arrive at the chains.

Lower off to the midpoint anchors, pull the rope, thread the rope again, and lower the rest of the way.


Location 

Located to the right of the brown water streak that splits Tatooine, this route is the second line of bolts to the right of the water streak and starts on a small pedestal between two somewhat-worse-for-the-wear bushes. The hangers are powder-coated dark gray.

The line climbs to the left of the enormous double roofs.


Protection 

Single pitch: 17 bolts, not including the midpoint anchors.
Two pitches: 9 bolts and 8 bolts, plus something for the anchors.

Hangers-and-chains anchors at the middle and top.



Photos of Leia's Leash Slideshow Add Photo
Walt not quite halfway on <em>Leia's Leash</em>. <br /> <br />March, 2011.
Walt not quite halfway on Leia's Leash.

...
John Ross, above the first chains and climbing into the first light-colored band. <br /> <br />Photo by Tyler Ross.
John Ross, above the first chains and climbing int...
John Ross arriving at the last roofs, about 120 feet off the ground. <br /> <br />Photo by Tyler Ross.
John Ross arriving at the last roofs, about 120 fe...
Walt at the first roof on <em>Leia's Leash</em>. March, 2011.
Walt at the first roof on Leia's Leash. M...
Comments on Leia's Leash Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 12, 2011
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
May 10, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A fine line that keeps on giving. Starts with a long stretch of fun 5.7 climbing to a distinct crux. Some stemming helps keep the crux .10a and gets you to the chains. Four star quality climbing continues as you pull the roofs using huge holds, with so much exposure below. The views of the canyon and valley are a free bonus.

Props to everyone who helped make the awesome trail to get up here.

By Stefani Day
May 31, 2009

We just visited this area and it was lots of fun. The climbs will be constantly changing for a while, since hand and footholds tend to break off occasionally. We couldn't really figure out the start to Leia's Leash. Where is it in relation to This is not a Lightsaber?

Thanks for all the hard work to put in the trail and put up the routes.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jun 1, 2009

Leia's Leash is the first bolted line to the right of This Is Not a Lightsaber. Hangers are dark gray, so they might be a bit difficult to see.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jun 1, 2009

The wall is west-facing, perhaps even a bit west-south-west. Therefore, in warmer weather you're definitely better off before noon or 1:00pm.

By darrell hodges
Oct 18, 2009

Great climb, at least up to the first anchor. That's where I stopped.
It's pretty easy up the well protected crux at the top. I'll have to come back and do the whole thing.

By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 3, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is high alpine climbing at its best. Simply just fun with committing moves and crazy exposure. I want to get high all over again. The ending roofs to a pocket is exhilerating.

TIE a knot at the of your rope!

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 3, 2009

High alpine?

By Megan Hansen
Oct 4, 2010

It is a bit of a hike to get there but DEFINITELY worth it. The run is still a bit sharp because its new but it will get better when people start doing it more. It was a lot of fun!

By Tyson
From: Salt lake city, ut
May 9, 2011

The second pitch is as good it gets. We were able to get to the ground on a single 70m. Next time I'm doing it as one pitch. Props to those who put in the hard work on this crag.

By BJB
From: Austin, TX
May 27, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think that this is probably one of the best routes i've ever climbed. Thanks a lot to the guys who built the trail up there.

By Kenny Clark
From: State College, PA
Jul 18, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Did it today in two pitches, but I would do it again in one single pitch. My new 70m rope had both ends barely on the ground on the rappel.

The roof system at the last set of chains is awesome! Go straight up them, because the holds are very sweet. What a great end to a classic climb!

By Kyle Hollenback
From: Provo, UT
Aug 12, 2011

Long climb, great features, exciting exposure. Love this route.