This South-facing crag is fairly exposed and get's lots of sun almost all day long, although it does overlook a valley that tends to get cool breezes off Big Bear Lake. The few times I have been here I have been the only party climbing. Also you can climb all the routes here in a couple of hours so if you don't have a lot of time and you have a rugged vehicle this crag is definitely worth a look.
Getting there is half the fun. Take hwy 18 along the north shore of Big Bear Lake. In the small town of Fawnskin (if you blink twice it is gone) you will see a small sign that says Rim of the World Dr. take this north (the beginning of the road is paved and starts right at the fire station) once you hit dirt follow for about 1/3 of a mile till you come to 3N14. Follow 3N14 for 2 miles (early in the season there can be 2-3 creek crossings with water up to 2 feet deep) This road is definitely not sedan friendly so be careful (you don't necessarily need a 4x4 but it would be nice) you will crest on a small hill where you can turn left (3N14C or right un marked) turn right you will see a gate on the right side of the road take this for less then a 1/10 of a mile and you will see 2N68 on your right (if you start heading down and around you went to far) turn onto 2N68 in about 100 feet you will see a nice pine needle covered parking area park here. Drive time to here about 20 minutes from Hwy 18.
Once you get to the parking lot look for the hill, on the other side of the road (south), with a few boulders on top and a dead pine tree that has fallen over. The top of the first formation is on top of that hill. The second formation is directly below it. The total time from car to crag is less then 5 minutes.
Climb lower angled rock to the first bolt and then make some awkward moves to the 2nd bolt where the wall steepens to vertical. Continue up past interesting and balancy moves on mostly good plates to the crux at the 3rd bolt where you must utilize a thin, fragile flake. One more bolt leads to a large ledge where the route then cuts sharply left for one last bolt on a featured headwall to shared anchors with Sky Patrol.Using a full length runner on the 4th bolt and a long draw on the 5th bolt ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
The "getting there" description is a little off. From Rim of the world drive, you need to turn left on 2n13. Stay on this road till you hit the crag. The other problem is that 2n13 is closed from both sides for at least another season because of a fire a couple years ago. Biologists are letting the area recover, so no access. I was warned that my car was in danger of getting towed if I parked at the gate and walked the about 2 miles in.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Jun 25, 2011
Scott, Patrick, Bryn, Connor, Stefan and myself walked there today, along 2N13, then 2N80, then Snowslide. Wonderful day no-ne around of course.
Very nice area with views of Hanna Rocks, Lake Arrowhead, and Mount Baldy.
I tried to head to the coven a week ago (23 June 2012) and the roads to get there (2N13 and 2N68) had closed, locked gates blocking them. The gate blocking 2N68 had a sign that said closed for winter conditions. Just curious if anyone knows when they are supposed to open these gates.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Jul 16, 2012
One day they'll open the gate, but apparently not this season. They're waiting for the area to recover after the Butler peak fire. It's a pretty nice walk though.