|West Face - Left Side
This is a two pitch face route that links a variety of features between The Rack and The Jamcrack.
Begin with the first few moves of The Trough, then step right and follow a thin crack until it peters out. Friction moves up and left (5.9) lead to the first bolt. Traverse left (5.10a) to a flake, then follow the flake system as it curves up and right to another bolt. Lieback the thinning flake (5.9 PG) to the third bolt. Above is a small flake that accepts thin pro (#1 metolious) then the crux: a bizarre sequence (5.10b/c) over a small roof (protected by a bolt) above which is the belay stance with a 2-bolt belay/rap anchor.(35 meter rappel from here).
Pitch 2: Up the slab past 2 bolts, moving right at the second bolt on 5.9 friction, then up easier (5.7 PG) face to a flake (#3 Camalot). Step over a small roof at a bolt (5.9+) then up easier slab to the top. This pitch ends on Pine Tree Ledge.
You can rap from the big pine tree all the way to the ground with two 70 Meter ropes, or make two 35 meter rappels with a single 70 meter rope.
The crux sections of this route are all right at a bolt, but there are sections of somewhat runout climbing in the 5.8/5.9 range.
Here's the rack I used:
One #6 Black Diamond Microstopper
Three #1 Metolious CDs
One #2 Metolious CD
One #3/4 Metoliuos offset CD
One each Camalots #.4,#.75,#2,#3
BETA PHOTO: Legends of the Fall
Frank Bentwood on the first pitch. Photo by Kelly ...
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Oct 16, 2009
This thing looks pretty cool. I may have to check it out this weekend. If so, I'll reply with my 2 cents... Nice work and thanks for sharing!
Apr 28, 2012
BG routes are always great, imho. this one is no exception and you better be thoughtful if you expect to climb this one. great climb, with some pretty bold stuff for us mortals...
|By J Smith|
Aug 26, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fun route and a good addition to the area. Heady move on 5.8 friction reaching the first bolt. There is some loose rock right below the crux roof on the first pitch, it can easily be avoided.