This is one of the best new lines on Cactus Cliff - I wavered a bit on whether it is 2 stars or 3. Comparing it to other 3 star lines like The French are Here, I finally decided on 2 stars - but it probably goes more like 2 and a half.
Start right of Puff Daddy on the left side of a prow. The climbing is great, with a very thin, crimpy, crux section down low (just believe), and a strange, desperate finish through awkward holds that finally relent to jugs.
There are good rests after the crux that will let you get it together before tackling the tricky finish.
It is hard for 12a but realistically not much harder than that.
Nice going, Brett. We were on it yesterday and enjoyed it.
First crux was fun, thin, technical. Second crux was pretty hard. Rest before you get there. You'll need it.
By BrendanP From: Fort Collins, Colorado Mar 27, 2013 rating: 5.12b7b26VIII+26E5 6b
"Just believe" is so appropriate for the lower crux - even after finally figuring it out, it still felt like I had missed a crucial hold. Unbelievably thin and pretty frustrating. The upper section drops back down into hard 5.11 territory with great moves the whole way, so don't be discouraged if you're stuck at the crux!
The "just believe" beta is pretty accurate for the lower crux. My partner gave me super key beta here - I wasn't thinking in that direction, and I would have never figured it out. Even then, it is a hard move for sure. If you are short, it will be a long reach. If you are tall, the foot positions are kind of awkward. It would be nice to set this as a problem in your garage so you could do it a few times and get it smoothed out.
I think the top runout borders on inappropriate for a rap bolted route. It is a pretty good stretch to the anchor, and the climbing is definitely not easy.