Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m)
FA: 2012
Page Views: 562 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jan 14, 2013
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Probably not worth doing. Poorly protected (pretty much nothing), scruffy, and the hoped-for finish was too wet and mossy to attempt, thus the finish traversing escape. With some fixed gear, this would be a worthwhile neighbor to Bella Vista, especially since upper pitches have been added.
P1:Climb up faint holds to pass the initial steep slab, then continue up low-angle slab just right of the scruffy left edge to reach a pair of diminutive seams. Follow these to their conjunction with the right-facing corner (crossing Bella Vista here), and continue up the corner to a stance just below the mossy, wet headwall. Traverse right 15' off the slab to trees.
P2 - 4: Move right to another steep-starting slab; just right of a scraggly pine tree growing out of the rock. Mantel onto a dirty ledge, follow a scruffy chimney to reach the top of its formative flake. Step out left of the vegetation onto a dirty slab and climb (runout) to cracks and grooves and an occasional dirt-filled horizontal. Traverse to any handy tree possible for a belay when it seems appropriate. A steep headwall without gear lies ahead, either belay well before, or just after it. Once through the headwall, continue moving up the slab, negotiating steep spots now and then, until reaching the upper belay anchor. The original route continued up the slab to the right to its high point, but the bulk of adventure is over by the time you reach the anchor.
Note that it is quite difficult to escape right off the upper pitches, and in many places equally difficult to escape left. Once you commit, the easiest solution is to push on.

Location Suggest change

15' left of the low point of the slab. Look for some subtle toe- and finger- holds leading up through the steep beginning.

Protection Suggest change

Effectively almost none.

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