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 ADVANCED
Main Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Guide to Ragged (1964) T,TR 
Aid Crack T 
Ancient Way T 
Angle of the Dangle TR 
Animal Crack T 
Ashtray TR 
Bald Face Hornet T,TR 
Birdman TR 
Black Orchid TR 
Bombay T 
Bombay Direct T,TR 
Broadway T 
Bushy Groove T 
Cage, The T,TR 
Carey Corner T 
Caroline TR 
Cemetary Vault T 
Chopper flakes T 
Crag Rat TR 
Crisis T 
Cutting Edge T,TR 
Cygnus X-1 TR 
Deception T 
Double Crux T 
Double Vision TR 
Duck Soup TR 
Easy Rider TR 
End Run T 
Eternity TR 
Faceout T 
Fall Of The House Of Monticello, The TR 
For Madmen Only T,TR 
Golden Age TR 
Green Gutter T 
Hemlock Groove T 
Hot Rocks T,TR 
Hurricane Gloria T,TR 
Jam Corner T,TR 
Juniper Wall T 
Knight's Gambit T 
Knight's Move T 
Kor Crack T 
Lavaredo Corner T,TR 
Left Edge T 
Leftover T 
Main Street T 
Marlinspike T 
May's Way T 
NCS Route T 
Netherlands TR 
North by North West T 
North End T 
Nux Vomica TR 
Obession T,TR 
Out Of Orbit T 
Owl Perch T 
Poison and Passion TR 
Pork Barrel Project T,TR 
Ragged Edge TR 
Right Edge T,TR 
Sandbag TR 
Side Entry T 
Sisu T 
Skull and Bones T,TR 
Subline T 
Sunday Bulge T 
Swan Song TR 
Sweat Slot T,TR 
Terminal Velocity T,TR 
Tower Crack T 
Trojan Horse T 
Un Petit Peu TR 
Unconquerable Crack T 
Vajolet Corner T,TR 
Vanishing Point T,TR 
Vector T 
Visions TR 
Visitor's Reception Center TR 
Wet Wall T 
Wetwall Wetlock Variation T 
Wiessner Crack T 
Wiessner Slab T 
Wishbone T 
YMC Route T 
Unsorted Routes:

Leftover 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Sam Streibert, John Dowd, 1964
Page Views: 612
Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

From the ledge atop the Cave Slabs, there are two main crack systems: a corner on the left (Ancient Way) and a wide crack on the right (Deception). Leftover starts about 10' left of Deception and climbs a textured face to a thin crack.

The crux is bouldering up to the first nut placement. Bring a good spotter! Once you slam in the first piece (a smallish wire) you're in good shape.

This climb is a true exemplar of Traprock climbing. The pro is adaquate (but just barely), the moves take a lot of thought, and even though the route is only about 60' it can take hours to lead. Ain't no sport climb.

Location 

From the base of Unconquerable Crack, pass left through a cave behind the May's Way slab. Then do an easy boulder problem up and left to the higher end of the ledge. This is the same approach as Ancient Way.

Protection 

Small and medium gear.


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