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This super cool route runs pretty much up the rope...
This is similar to Hot Stuff but less sustained. The rock was very dirty when the route was established. Hours have been spent cleaning it, and yet it is still fairly dirty. There is a nice crux between the last bolt and the anchor.
This is left of Hot Stuff in the middle of the Wall of the Nineties. A path leads nearly right to its base.
Now, this has 10 bolts plus anchors. Originally, this had 7 bolts.
Note, a 60m rope leaves you a bit short rappeling or TR'ing this, beware.
Brian Rolfson at the crux.
|Comments on Leftover Stuff
|By Casey Bernal|
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 10, 2004
This route needs some thorough cleaning. There are many loose hand and foot holds that are flexing throughout the climb. I pulled off a couple nice sized holds and tossed them away from the belayer but several I couldn't get safely while on lead. This was nerve-racking since all the bolts are spaced out 10-20 feet except the ones near the 'crux', which are only a couple feet apart. The numerous loose holds are a danger to the leader and the belayer.
The climbing seemed somewhat fun, but in its current state I would give it a bomb.
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jun 11, 2004
To help you distinguish this line from Hot Stuff:
The bolts for this line as of 6-10-04 were very shiny. They are standard commercial hangers. The anchors are at least 15 feet lower than Hot Stuff.
|By Thor Kieser|
Jun 12, 2004
Thanks for comments, I'll continue to clean as much as I can as soon as I can
|By Thor Kieser|
Aug 1, 2004
I added three bolts to this climb. Now it is much less run out. Enjoy - Thor
|By Christian Bienvenu|
Aug 29, 2004
The "dirty" comments are ridiculous. There is a little lichen in a few spots. Were not pullin' plastic in the gym. Plus, if it's too dirty, then pitch in and contribute a little by cleaning the route. Nice route, Thor, we really enjoyed it!
|By Drew Allan|
Jun 24, 2005
Fun excursion on better rock than it may look. The first half is a good warm up with two fun bulges before the crux upper section. There is a loose block at the first bulge. Don't yard on it. At the top, Work left than right to finish at the anchors. Worthwhile.
|By Doug Redosh|
From: golden, CO
Jul 6, 2005
Slightly easier than Hot Stuff to its right. It is now mostly clean. There are 2 blocks marked with "X" but they did not move for us. A 60m rope just makes it for lowering/rapping off.
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 12, 2005
Excellent route. better warm up than Hot Stuff. Getting to the last clip grazes the 5.10 mark, otherwise fun and positive 9+.
|By Nate Oakes|
May 24, 2006
The two roofs are fun. Each roof has a large X'ed-out block just below and to the left of it, but I tried tugging on each of them and neither would budge. I weigh more than most climbers as well, so I would say ignore the X's. This is an interesting route in that it starts juggy and transitions to slab climbing, then it starts over again and ends with another slab section. Good variety for a warm-up. If you belay off the ledge, then a 60m rope is just the right length. Crux is indeed at the top, and the pro is all good as of yesterday.
Jul 11, 2006
Can't say the bolt placements (esp. at the crux) make much sense to me (just seems awfully contrived and at times a bit awkward). Nonetheless, it is a fun climb on good rock (as of today not dirty or loose at all).
I'd rate it a fun 5.9 if not for the 3 thin moves between the last two bolts. . . 5.10b/c and a star or two.
|By Brian Frank|
Jul 16, 2006
I think if you stay off to the left, just under the anchors the moves are 10+, but if you traverse within a few feet of HOT STUFF it's 10-.
The bolts at the top seem a bit confusing, the last bolt is off left, and the route seems to go right?
|By Casey Bernal|
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 13, 2007
So, after approximately 3 years and 2 months, I finally climbed this route again. It has improved significantly since I first climbed it. It is much cleaner and *most* of the loose rocks are gone.
1 star and 10- seems right to me.
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 8, 2008
I agree with the comment about the Xs. They sounded solid and felt so. The route was clean and solid. The crux felt low 11 to me. I followed the line of bolts up to the left and then crossed to the right. It kinda looked like a crux hold is gone now. The people that followed after me felt it was 10c, but they both hung at the crux and got back on to the right.
|By Jeff Welch|
From: Thornton, CO
Jul 30, 2008
There is no way this climb is 5.11, although there are a couple technical moves. I climbed the line that apparently was intended by the bolts, moving left on the crux headwall to the 2nd to last bolt, then back right at the last bolt. I would say low 10, possibly harder than 10a, but not harder than 10b.
As for the X'd blocks - I did not inspect the first one closely, but it is easily avoided. However, there is an obvious thin crack in the second one right where it attaches to the wall. Regardless of whether it moves or not, I'd consider it questionable at best. Avoiding it is a touch harder than using it, but still in 5.9 land.
This is a great warmup climb IMO, as it features good climbing that progressively gets harder as you go, with an interesting crux sequence.
|By Phil Lauffen|
Jul 13, 2010
A 60m works fine. Lands you on a ledge 5 feet up from the huge ledge.
Tougher than Hotstuff was definitely the consensus today.
|By J Antin|
From: Denver, CO
May 14, 2011
I agree with Phil L. - this one seemed much more difficult than Hot Stuff - maybe HS fits my style better, but the top of Leftover required much more technique and focus than HS.
|By Keith H. North|
From: Englewood, CO
May 16, 2011
Fun route... spicy finish. Does make a very good warm up because of the easy start into the more difficult finish.
From: Bear Creek, CO
Aug 12, 2011
I was informed by someone else at the crag that a hold broke on the last crux. I would say first crux goes at 10a, second, 10b and the final puzzling traverse is 10d. I have been onsighting 10d/11a for a while now, and it took me 3 tries to redpoint (granted it started raining on the second attempt).
Jul 5, 2012
Still some lose stuff on this route, noticed a few loose holds in the middle on the way up, and kicked off a checkbook-sized rock accidentally on my way down about 20 feet from the top. I think it was off route, because I didn't see anything loose there on the way up, but there is definitely still potential for stuff to come down. Stay alert.