lefthand canyon crags?

I'm moving to a place up lefthand, and wondering if there's any info on the crags there. Definitely have seen quite a few from the road. Probably some bouldering too? I'd love to be playing in my own backyard.

In particular, nugget hill area because that's where I'll be living.

The crags below Buckingham Park are closed to climbing. Too bad because there used to be some great sport routes on the nice panel at the lower end of the cliff line. Don't know anything about crags upstream of Buckingham Park.
Mal

Hey Mal,

I was just checking these rocks out today. Do you know why they were closed?

Prod.

I've driven by this spectacular looking cliff near Buckingham Park several times recently. I wondered why I'd not seen it here on MP. Closed 'eh? That sucks.

Did a route under the nice face yesterday 26JAN19, a 5.6 up the ramp to dogleg and straight up; the pro was PG/ R.
--

Ross Swanson wrote: Did a route under the nice face yesterday 26JAN19, a 5.6 up the ramp to dogleg and straight up; the pro was PG/ R.
--

Just so you don’t mislead the public, that route felt like 5.9 R/X because of all the loose lichen, loose rock, long runout and fragile placements. Forests of poison ivy growing from loose talus guard the approach. It closes February 1 through July 31 for raptor nesting. 

prod. Kenny wrote: Hey Mal, I was just checking these rocks out today. Do you know why they were closed? Prod.

It's called Old Stage Road. It is on privately owned land. If you can get you hands on the old Boulder Climbs North, by Rossiter, You can get some info on it.

I've been bouldering FAs up trail 842 in the Lefthand OHV area recently.  I've cleaned and climbed about 30 problems from V0 to V5.  I was hoping for more variety and some more challenging problems.  Everything here is predominantly V0 to V1.  Regardless, it's been a fun area that's very off the radar, if you're into that sort of thing.  I've been calling the area 'Paradise Boulders'.  

PM me for beta.  The best boulders are Deerpatch (tall V0s to V2s), Rey's Rock (Monkey Paw V3/V4), Ginger Block (Butterfly Pavilion V3/V4), and Catnip Crescent (V3/V4).  Ginger Block is particularly nice with some tall and clean arete problems (Gingerly Left and Right, both V1).

There are many other climbing opportunities in the canyon as well, but it helps to know some locals for beta.  Some of it that was posted on MP seems to have been removed recently.  Honestly, it's probably a good thing.  In the spirit of exploration and solitude, I'd argue that not everything needs to be in the public database.  If you're looking for it, you can find climbing in a lot of places that you may not expect.

tbol pop that  beta up on MP! I'd love to take a look at it, after riding the trails,

Long Ranger wrote: tbol pop that  beta up on MP! I'd love to take a look at it, after riding the trails,

I'll post something up in the next week or two!  Just have to compile some notes and pics. 

Here you go.  This format was easier for me - I'll add more problems when I get time this week or next.  This should get ya started.

https://www.coolaperture.com/paradise-boulders/

Any problems on this thing?

https://www.google.com/maps/@40.1268223,-105.3045651,3a,75y,271.99h,94.29t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sUlDKLUoDPZoGH1CtS9oezQ!2e0!7i16384!8i8192

It is on the west side of Lefthand Canyon Drive, between Geer Canyon and Olde Stage. There are more boulders up the hill visible in the picture, but I've only played around on the roadside boulder (in biking shoes).

I'm not sure about that one.  I've often wondered.  I never see chalk on it.  Looks worthy!  

Maybe I'll stop by and check it out next time I go up there.  If you beat me to it, post it up or send me some info.  I'm happy to add more problems to my mini-guide if people are into it.  I just didn't really want to add it all to MP.  I'm purposely leaving out some climbing I know about in the canyon, out of respect for people working on FAs at undisclosed locations, etc.  

People think the Front Range is climbed out.  Bocan isn't even climbed out yet, haha.

There is a small cave across the creek from this one, PRRose.  It has some chalk from time to time.  Although, I don't know anything about it.  Haven't checked it out yet.  I would guess it's on private property, since it's on the same cliff band as Olde Stage Crag. 

Super cool, I would have never thought there would be bouldering up there from the road. Guess I'll have to take a MTB ride with my rock shoes, soon.

hey there. im a route devoloper and was wondering if anyone has seen some worthy cliffs back there?? im mostly looking at mid 13-14 sport routes. if someone finds a rad wall up there near those trails I'd be game to bolt other grades for all! I just gotta be picky on what i bolt cause of my back.

Hey Will, I haven't seen much in the way of crags up there.  I have some other nearby stashes that I've talked to you about in the past, I think.  I am friends with Ryan Pecknold and I think we met at the gym once.  But there was once something posted on MP for a short time, and it was up in that zone and already had a lot of development up to 13- sport/mixed routes.  I hiked around a lot and never found it, but I think it was called the Backyard Miracle and it was taken down from the site.  I'd be really curious if you stumbled upon that.  I also have always wanted to check out the stuff you and Ryan worked on, but I know the access was tricky.  I know of a few other small cliffs that have climbing, but they are also on private property.  Plenty of nuggets up in those canyons. 

PM me if you want to chat more! 

@tbol, here's a picture of a friend of mine enjoying the Love Boat boulder in a different way.  One of the sketchier slabs around for mountain biking!  The entrance and exit are terrifying.

That's awesome, Monty.  Probably a better use of that boulder, honestly! 

Hi people,

Old thread but it seems a few folks are still around.  I live up in Ward and would really love to have some local partners.  There’s plenty of climbing in Left Hand.  Most of it is intentionally not posted on MP.  Plenty developed and more available.  I would love to link up with folks that want to climb here.  Please PM me.  
-Caleb