BETA PHOTO: The 1st view of Left Wire.
|Upper Canyon access closed - 8p Mar. 22 - 5p Mar. 28 MORE INFO >>>|
The Left Wire crag is a very sunny, quiet crag. Its main attraction in C.C.C. is that you can't hear any road noise at all. Although most of the routes are fairly short (toping at about 75 feet), the rock is quite good and fairly easy on the hands. With fourteen mostly moderate routes from 5.7 to 5.12, a mixed climbing experience is a given. The crag has 1 trad, 3 mixed, 3 TRs, and 8 fully bolted sport routes. It would be best to bring a standard rack up to #3 Camalots.
While the reason for developing the area was based around no crowds and no noise, a few must do's exist at this crag.
5.11a: Better than it first looks and quite pumpy. 7 bolts with LO.
2) Show Nuff
5.10a: Climb up jugs (#0.75-#1 cam helpful down low) traverse right on a slab to the bottom of an arete. Climb up the corner for about 10-15 feet before making the crux move left onto a nice scenic slab to the top. 9 bolts with LO.
5.10a/b: Classic roof climbing moves with an exiting exit for the top. Follow fun face climbing past for bolts to the underside of a huge roof. Note: Cams #0.75-#2 are needed as well as long slings to avoid rope drag. Climb through the roof system passing only one bolt before reaching the anchors. 5 bolts (cams, long slings) LO.
4) Totality of Facts
5.11d: If you like hard and hairy climbing, this is it for you. Climb up easy slab to a super crux followed by a spooky runout to reach the final bolt and chains. 5 bolts with LO.
In this category this crag only hosts one, worth the walk, airy, technical pump fest that I feel is classic. It's called "Night Stick
", 5.11b. Begin in a right-facing dihedral to a fantastic arete and corner. Be sure to gain a rest before pulling out onto a steep, right-leaning rail. A few pumpy clips and you are styling. It is my personal favorite. 8 bolts to LO.
When John Morgan and myself (Luke Childers) climbed out the High Wire and the Wall of Justice, we found this fun, little playground which gave way to interesting and pleasant route developing summer. Like I said, it's not the best crag in C.C.C., but it is uncrowded, quiet, beautiful, moderate, and neat. Oh yeah, it's also really nice on colder days.
The best way to reach the Left Wire crag is to head as far left of High Wire crag as you can. Once you see the path heading to the Wall of Justice, continue walking right like you were going to the top of the Wall of Justice. You will come to a point where the High Wire crag runs out and there you will make you final right hand turn past some nice pine trees. The crags left side or east-facing routes will be visible at this point. All that is left is to have fun in the sun. Hope all enjoy.
Park at Tunnel 2. The approach is the same as if you were going to climb at the High Wire crag. Head up to High Wire and continue up trending leftward traversing along the cliff band staying above the Wall of Justice. When High Wire cliff band runs out, take a right and you will see the east-facing routes before your very eyes.
A. Getto Curb
, 13-, 1p, bolts.
, 12+, 1p, bolts.
C. Logical Space
, 12-, 1p, TR.
D. Totality of Facts
, 11+, 1p, bolts.
, 7, TR.
F. Renounce Action
, 10, 1p, bolts.
, 10-, 1p, 75', bolts & gear.
H. No Fruit
, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
Show Nuff Wall
I1. Trad Intent
, 6, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
, 8-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
J. Show Nuff
, 10-, 1p, 75', bolts.
K. Night Stick
, 11, 1p, 60', nbolts.
, 10, 1p, 60', gear.
MN. Awful Width
, 9+, 1p, TR or gear.
, 11-, 1p, 60', bolts.
90 Second Wall
O. Calculation 45
, 13, 1p, bolts.
P. Formula 45
, 12+/13-, 1p, bolts.
Weather station 4.2 miles from here
18 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]
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BETA PHOTO: Show Nuff Wall. Moving from right to left along t...
BETA PHOTO: Left Wire (right side).
BETA PHOTO: Addict's Wall just left of Show Nuff Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Facts Wall. Left of the break from the Pink Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Getto Wall. The far left end of the crag.
BETA PHOTO: The Left Wire's left side. View is looking to the...
BETA PHOTO: Left Wire with a view of the "90 Second Wall&...
BETA PHOTO: Another view of the Facts Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Pink Wall viewed looking east.
BETA PHOTO: Pink Wall. This is about the middle of the Left W...
Aug 7, 2008
Climbed at Left Wire in this area yesterday. There are some short quality routes that look as though they have not seen many ascents. Great views of the Clear Creek drainage and a good way to get away from the crowds at High Wire.
From: Boulder, Co
Apr 29, 2009
My partner left a pair of Sportiva Testarossa shoes up there on Sunday as we fled from the snow/rain. If you've found 'em, send me a PM please! Thanks and here's to better weather this weekend.
By Doug Redosh
Apr 23, 2010
The quietest crag in CCC that is not a 20 min. hike.
Dividing this small crag into all these subsection is quite artificial IMHO. Addicts Wall, Show Nuff Wall and Right Side are really continuous, and the Pink Wall is just around the corner to the left.
By Luke Childers
May 1, 2010
This was my first attempt at documenting any routes and was inexperienced in the ways of making things simple for all mankind. If this info ever gets republished, I would be all for not having the info so divided. I agree.. the division of this small crag now seems more than ridiculous. But, that's how it is at the moment. The future will work this area into a simpler footnote I'm sure.