Left Up 

Another potential LG ankle-breaker! My partner and I went for this route as our "warmup" for the day and got a rude awakening on the start. After three slides off the start and one sore ankle, I threw in the towel and we went for an easier warmup. I imagine the friction is better on the start when the weather is cooler, but even so, I think the moves off the deck are more in the 5.9 range.

saxfiend nailed that one. i would recommend having someone in your group pack in a crashpad if you are going to be climbing at the southside. left up, right up, and bloody crack are all great candidates for ankle breaking. and as was mentioned before, the opening moves of all of these climbs are polished and more difficult than the grade would suggest. I am no slab climber, but i felt like the opening sequence was about a 5.10 and the rest of the climb was more like a 5.5. I guess that averages out to 5.7?

If you are opposed to having a little gear beta for this route, then please stop reading now!

Once you get to the first decent stance you can place a bomber #1 camalot in the obvious pocket you can see from the ground. move a little higher and you can get a somewhat marginal small cam, i believe i used a #1 metolius tcu. This will get you beyond the crux and I think it would save you any major injuries if you were to slip off. From here the gear is plentiful and bomber. You can absolutely sew this thing up all the way to the top with tricams, stoppers, tcu's, and slcu's. You will need two ropes to get down.

This route leads to an expansive ledge with bolted rap rings shared with two other popular routes, "Good Intentions" and "Right Up".

To save my ankles, I usually lead "Good Intentions" and setup a top-rope anchor on the wall just below the ledge to work the other two routes as well as variances in between.

I've rappelled this ledge with a 60m single rope, so unless your rope is short, I wouldn't sweat using two ropes to get down.

I'm surprised how many folks "toe the line" and rate this 5.7. I'd say it's much harder.

A stick clip, or climbing the casual line to the left then traversing on the ledge to set up a TR would be a good idea. We were there for 5 hours or so and saw 3 different people deck on this route. Luckily there wer no injuries.

FUn Warm up and Introduction to the South Face of Looking Glass. Don't let the bone breaking reputation get to you, its all there and more. That being said, first moves are slick and you will probably break your ankles if you fall, a crash pad would be a nice accessory on this route.

its a great climb. but its really a V1 bolder problem below a 5.5 climb. spotters are a must and a bouldering mat makes you feel a lot better.