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Below The Old New Place
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I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 
Inflight Movie S 
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Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 
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Wailing Banshees S 

Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,573
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jul 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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When the finger crack ends it's on to the tiny cri...

Description 

A beautiful slightly overhanging finger crack with just enough footholds and pockets on the faces. Shake out at the hand jam rest before a couple of thin, cruxy face moves to easier terrain at the top. Bear to the right up high to reach the anchors.

Originally rated 5.11c/d, but general consensus is that this is a notch or two easier. Still, it's sustained (for White Rock), with no great rests.

At least 2 longtime LA climbers swear this crack was not called Manic Crack back in the day; that this and the crack to its right (now called Lost Nerve in the guidebooks) were referred to as the "Twin Cracks". This makes sense, that the "Manic Crack" name resulted from its nearness to the sport climb "Manic Nirvana", which was bolted in '89 or '90, but most of the cracks here and even some of the faces had been climbed earlier, on TR if not on lead.

Location 

Obvious slightly overhanging finger crack just right of the Banshees bolted arete climb.

Protection 

Rack of cams from a #0.3 camalot to a #2 camalot; some may want 1-3 extras of #0.4 camalot size. Nuts also may be useful, though they're harder to place from pumpy stances.
At the top, angle to the right from the top to the 2-bolt anchor for Manic Nirvana (the sport climb just to the right).


Photos of Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) Slideshow Add Photo
Solid finger locks are the norm on the route. March 2010.
Solid finger locks are the norm on the route. Marc...
George Perkins looking solid on his first clean send of Manic Crack. April 29, 2008.
George Perkins looking solid on his first clean se...
George Perkins placing a piece to protect the crux of Manic Crack.
George Perkins placing a piece to protect the crux...
Josh Smith sending in style.
Josh Smith sending in style.

Comments on Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) Add Comment
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By Dave Wachter
Mar 13, 2008

Super sweet finger crack with nice feet and unlimited gear placements. Nice hand jam rest halfway up, one size fits all. I agree that the rating is too generous (10+ or 11- more like it). Again! Again!
By Matthias Lang
From: Albuquerque
Nov 17, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I went left to the Banshees anchor, hope I didn't miss any of the good climbing.
Awesome route!