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 ADVANCED
Left Side

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Art of Dreaming, The S 
Bedtime Story S 
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 
Bobsled, The S 
Caffeine Buzz S 
Chore Boy T,S 
Daily Grind, The S 
Golden Slumber T,S 
Lucky Strikes S 
Morpheus T,S 
Mr. Sandman S 
My Buddy S 
Napster S 
Not So Obscure T 
Opener S 
Sleepless Child T,TR 
Sleepless in Boulder S 
Smell the Coffee S 
Snooze Button S 
Something Obscure T 
Tooth Fairy S 
Wake Up Call S 
War On Freedom S 

Left Side  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 1, 2006
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  • Description 

    These routes are on the left side of Plotinus Wall, from My Buddy on the left to Lucky Strikes on the right. Mr. Sandman (10b) is a popular warm-up route. Lots of excellent sport climbing here!

    L->R:

    A1. My Buddy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts. Start up in L gully.
    A2. Bedtime Story, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
    B. Sleepless Child, 1p, 90', 9, gear. Follow crack through tree.
    C. Morpheus, 11, 1p, 100', 8 bolts, gear. Long RFD.
    D. Wake Up Call, 10, 1p, 60', bolts. Steep slab.
    E1. Snooze Button, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Bulge and slab.
    E2. Chore Boy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts, optional gear.
    F. Smell the Coffee, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab to roof.
    above F. Caffeine Buzz, 8, 1p, bolts. Above F or G.
    G. The Daily Grind, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab, overlap, seam.
    I. Napster, 10, 1p, 40', bolts. Flake.
    J. Something Obscure, 10-, 2p, gear. Funky crack.
    K. Tooth Fairy, 11, 1p, 90'?, bolts. Dihedral.
    L. Mr. Sandman, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
    M. Golden Slumber, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts, small-medium cams. Layback, face, thin crack.
    N. Sleepless in Boulder, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
    O. The Art of Dreaming, 12, 1p, bolts. Traverse R.
    P. The Bobsled, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
    QP. The Bobsled Direct Start, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
    R. War On Freedom, 13-, 1p, bolts.
    S. Lucky Strikes, 12, 1p, bolts.

    Getting There 

    Follow the approach directions for Plotinus Wall, which takes you to the wall just below The Scientist. Then head uphill to your route. The path is loose and eroded, so be careful.

    Climbing Season

    Traffic By Month

    23 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',13],['5.11',4],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Left Side:
    Mr. Sandman   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Smell the Coffee   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Snooze Button   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Wake Up Call   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Chore Boy   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    The Daily Grind   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Morpheus   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
    Sleepless in Boulder   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
    The Bobsled   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Lucky Strikes   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
    The Art of Dreaming   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    War On Freedom   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Browse More Classics in Left Side

    Featured Route For Left Side
    On the easier middle ground; mostly trad gear here. There are some strenuous but not too hard moves to get to this point. <br /> <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha

    Golden Slumber 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Left Side
    Golden Slumber starts just left of Sleepless in Boulder. Power up a series of cool lay-backing and face moves past several bolts to a short left-facing corner. Place gear in the corner, gain a big hold and clip a bolt below a thin crack. Climb the crack using gear and then climb past two bolts (crux) to a two-bolt anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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