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 ADVANCED
Sugarloaf Mountain
Select Route:
Flying Frog Crack T,TR 
kidney, The TR 
Left Side Roof T,TR 

Left Side Roof 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: Brandon Snyder on Dec 27, 2010

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Description 

this route was one i always thought about trying but i looked real hard, to my suprise it went eaiser than the main crack. climb the leftmost crack and lieback out the roof to a nice edge undercling in a crack and work you feet onto the right wall now you can reach the crescent hold at the final lip of the roof match your left hand and foot drop in the knee to move the right hand up in the crack unlock the knee flag your left foot and reach for the jug. I think this move is easy but i have seen more than one person struggle

Location 

next to FFC

Protection 

for the lead #3 stopper .5 camalot and a #2 tcu for the top crack a crash pad or two is needed for the lead


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