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Left Route 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kirk Miller? (before bolts?)
Page Views: 1,286
Submitted By: Orphaned on Oct 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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My first lead, shaking out right above the crux (t...

Description 

This is the left-most route. Some people whine about its existence, but what else are you going to do, drive farther? The crux is getting off the ground with scary ground fall potential.


Protection 

quickdraws, 2BA



Photos of Left Route Slideshow Add Photo
A good view of the short dyno about 3/4 of the way up. Both hands on a decent jug at about belly level, pull your feet up as high as you can, and lunge for the next crack. You want to hit right on those water streaks (where I'm looking in the photo).
BETA PHOTO: A good view of the short dyno about 3/4 of the way...
Comments on Left Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dave Wachter
May 25, 2008

Actually harder than the route just to the right (especially the start, which is NEVER 5.9+), and much poorer quality. Best to skip it.

By BlahBlahBlah
Sep 26, 2008

yah, this route is FAR more difficult than the one next to it...the start is a 10 move for sure. and the top is DIRTY DIRTY. but it was pretty scary and sketchy so i generally enjoyed it.

By Nick Manke
From: Edgewood, NM
Oct 28, 2008

The start to this one will take you by surprise. Like others I'd say this move is more challenging than any of the moves on the area favorite just to the right.

By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 1, 2009

Not reccommended. Dirty, slopey and often full of water. First time I did it I thought it was supposed to be a 5.8. It is NOT a 5.8.

By Jarred Cleerdin
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Its worth running up. Good foot work will make the starting moves static and feel about 5.9 if your throwing for that first good hold a couple feet up from the lip you are probably not being very creative with your side pulls and footwork.

By Aaron James
4 days ago

It looks like Somebody carved out a hold for the crux start. Now rather than a crappy 5.9+, I'd say its a crappy 5.8+. If your gf can't do a move, just pull her past it.