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 ADVANCED
Sven Tower 3
Select Route:
Ergone  T,S 
Left Rib--5.9+ variation T,S 
Left Route  S 
Right Rib T,S 
Undercling T 

Left Route  

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 185'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 601
Submitted By: ClimbPHX.com on Aug 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Excellent exposure makes this a really fun route, ...

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Description 

The crux will hit you after the second bolt - the gap before the arete can be backed up with a Alien or cam but beware of your rope getting sucked up into the seam above... its sharp and I would not want to take a whipper sawing into that.
Higher up there are some solid slab moves ... be prepared for the 7+ move.

Location 

Past first obvious slab, in a culvert

Protection 

Bolts and a cam to protect the arete move to bolt


Photos of Left Route Slideshow Add Photo
The bottom slab is cruxy to the horizontal crack/ledge.
The bottom slab is cruxy to the horizontal crack/l...
A cam placement before stepping up through the V offers good protection.
A cam placement before stepping up through the V o...
Definitely cruxy near the top, and lots of fun if you like that free open-air feeling! :-)
Definitely cruxy near the top, and lots of fun if ...

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By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
May 16, 2011

Great climb, dont cheat yourself at the overhang :)

-Shiloh@CLimbPHX.com