Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Blob Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Hike for Y2K 
A Hike With Ludwig Dude 
Crack Tack 
Left Roof 
Of Human Bondage 
Old Route 
Out Of Limits 

Left Roof 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: J. Walsh & J. Erickson, 1971
Page Views: 368
Submitted By: Tony B on May 26, 2002
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure - opened July 30, 2013 MORE INFO >>>
  • Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    If you like mellow Flatirons climbing, and you want it to be short, and granite, then try this route. It protects better than many Flatirons anyway.

    Go to the Blob Slab, the light-colored slab at the left-hand side of the base of the right hand 'half' of Blob Rock. Walk left up the base of this slab until you are ~20 right of a HUGE flake that leans against the wall. From this point on the ground, there is a series of seams and cracks which create a line up and right towards the anchors at the top of the Blob Slab. These anchors can provide a good TR for the other routes on the wall.

    Climb up the features, wandering as you like to reach the anchors.


    Protection 

    On the Blob slab, this is the easiest and least runout of any of the routes. I am hesitant to give it an S and would not but for the consideration of the fact that some climbers may not possess a lot of small nuts or the skill to place them. For that consideration, I rate this route as an 'S-' By Flatirons standards, it is well protected and reasonably easy.

    There are several nut and small-tricam placements in the features shown in Rossiter's topos (which are pretty good) Take a good rack of small wires up to a #10 BD, and a few small tricams, if you have them. A fall would probably not result in an injury, unless gear failed. It is easily TR'ed from the 2 bolt-and-chain anchors above the route, but how are you going to get there without some scrambling? I'd say just lead it.



    Comments on Left Roof Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Rodger Raubach
    Mar 12, 2011
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c PG13

    From my notes: "Looks easy but isn't. Pro hard to place at start, but takes RPs; can get a larger stopper placement after about 30 feet, and before pulling the crux."

    By Rodger Raubach
    Dec 4, 2011
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c PG13

    After finding my original copy of the Erickson guide, this was rated 5.8 by the FA party.