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 ADVANCED
Sven Tower 3
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Ergone  T,S 
Left Rib--5.9+ variation T,S 
Left Route  S 
Right Rib T,S 
Undercling T 

Left Rib--5.9+ variation 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 185', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 412
Submitted By: Ted Smith on Oct 3, 2010

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Transitioning across the horizontal crack.
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Description 

Cruxy move at the transition onto a overhung face just above a horizontal crack is really really fun! Another psychological crux is found stepping up over another wall 25 or so ft. above and to the right--due to exposure, but it is a well-protected move. Very thin footwork near the top probably marks the technical crux for the climb!


Location 

Starts the same as the Left Rib Arete climb, but deviates to the right onto a seemingly blank overhung face and stays exposed nearly the rest of the way to the top.


Protection 

three bolts to the overhung face. A cam at the horizontal crack before the face protects a tricky move. The rest of the climb is bolt protected.



Photos of Left Rib--5.9+ variation Slideshow Add Photo
The overhung to vertical face is really fun to climb!
The overhung to vertical face is really fun to cli...
The true technical crux--smears for the feet and nothing for the hands.
The true technical crux--smears for the feet and n...
Thin slab moves make the lower section of the climb interesting.
Thin slab moves make the lower section of the clim...
The second psychological crux.
The second psychological crux.
Open-handed climbing.
Open-handed climbing.
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