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 ADVANCED
West Side- Backbone Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Warmup 
Bane of Vince, The 
Battle of the Bulge 
Belly of the Beast 
bottom of the barrel  
crack 
Dangle 
Dire Straight 
Early Bird 
Eighteen (and life) 
Face Left of Wright's Arete 
first things first 
Forgotten Finger Crack  
Layback Crack Attack 
Leaning Rock 
Left out 
Me So Gorny 
Me So Gorny Direct...AKA Don't Commit! The Footchip You Are On Is Broken!  
Midwest Hardcore (aka 6hrs) 
Mr. Clean 
Nameless 
Nameless Slab 
Picasso center 
Picasso Left 
Picasso Pillar 
Picasso Right 
Picasso way left 
Product of the Southwest 
Prostrator, The 
Sandstone Violence 
Scarete 
Seventeen 
Take My Picture 
Topshelf 
Trail Crew 
Twelve 
Twelve A 
Udaho 
Vitamin V-less 
Wright's Arete 

Left out 

Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+

   
Type:  Boulder, 25'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: travis?
Page Views: 1,148
Submitted By: TravisMelin on Jun 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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John coming around to the arete

Description 

This route starts in the middle of the face and works its way up the left arete. The crux is a right hand throw to the bad arete, after securing a left hand crimp on the arete. Bringing the feet up over the lip of the roof may also be a comittment crux for some.


Location 

About 25 feet past nameless arete. A 5 foot tall slab/face capped with a 1.5 foot horizontal roof, which then has a slightly concave/vertical 10 foot face atop it. Also about 5 feet right of a large tree that hugs the cliff.


Protection 

Pads, spotters.



Photos of Left out Slideshow Add Photo
Chris nearing the top
Chris nearing the top
Ross attempting the line
Ross attempting the line
Left out.  Cool problem.
Left out. Cool problem.
Boulder Bash 2011
Boulder Bash 2011
Comments on Left out Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 11, 2012
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 23, 2008
rating: V5 6C

Nice lines Travis. I looked at both variations of these (this one and Dangle) last summer, but they looked very improbable so I passed on them. Got on them last night finally, a bit humid, alone- no spotter, with skeeters harassing me and rednecks blasting Rush 2112 from the campsite below, so not perfect conditions but I would say they both were more tricky and committing than suggested. Fortunately they are not too tall. They were more tricky than Huston Arete (V5ish?) and Split Personality (V5-6ish?) for me but hey we're all a bit different and each day is different. Again, nice lines and great additions.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jun 17, 2008
rating: V5 6C

i agree that it was harder than both. I have it at 5+ where the other to i have standard v5. super super quality problem. didnt try dangle yet but it looks as if the crimp the description speaks of is broken.

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Jun 17, 2008

I was there a month ago and thought the crimp was gone as well. Turns out the moves are still the same but maybe my description is off by one move.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jun 17, 2008
rating: V5 6C

wow that was a quick response. haha. yeah it looked like it would still go without to much difficulty. wierd rock wedged in the landing zone. looked as if it could be knocked out of there but who knows. Anyways i thought left out was total class. bravo. Also, has anyone gone in the warmer months? are the bugs unbearable, rock ungrabbable, ect?

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 17, 2008
rating: V5 6C

yup, when i was on these problems a few weeks ago, i found no left hand crimp on 'dangle'. ended up matching on the sloper (left hand up there first then right) and then using a small intermediate sidepull edge for the left and moving feet up. i was wondering what the heck that beta was all about, but it makes sense that the problem has changed. but hey whatever works...

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 24, 2008

Has anyone ever tried the direct face yet. Looks good, but hard. New project?

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jun 26, 2008
rating: V5 6C

i was looking but there's just no holds on the face after the 2 good sidepulls... i mean like blanky mc blank. unless im missing something. did u see something i didnt?

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 6, 2008
rating: V5 6C

Just to confirm what i already said... There are no holds for about 4 feet and then theres some slopey crap but the other problem is that there arent any feet over the lip to get high and lock those holds off. gave several goes just to check it out. I would love to hear otherwords.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 8, 2008

Great problem. Worked on it for awhile.

By Brian Runnells
Nov 16, 2008
rating: V4 6B

Once your left hand is on the arete, can't you just climb straight up the arete and not mess with the small holds out right??

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 16, 2008
rating: V5 6C

for sure. i believe that is how everyone does the problem your-narcness

By Brian Runnells
Nov 25, 2008
rating: V4 6B

Ok, the other descriptions were a bit confusing.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jan 11, 2012

After many attempts at this climb, I have concluded that it is a forced contrivity. You can paste your feet all over the dihedral, but you can't use the large jug, forcing you into terrible, barn-doory movement for no reason. I say, use the large jug in the dihedral for a fun V3.