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When facing Bucksnort from the road, there is a very easy approach to the Classic D area. If you continue on to the south (left-facing the cliff), one passes a pile of huge boulders that almost come to the road. After this, there is another trail leading up to the cliff. Scramble up to the cliff and scramble up to a boulder platform that has two bolted routes starting from it. This boulder platform is up and left and about 25 higher than the start of the route "Buckfever". Left Out starts from the boulder platform and is the lefthand bolted route.
The route: make a difficult move off the boulder, and clip the first bolt from a difficult stance. Move up and left (crux) to the second bolt. From there, diagonal up and right on a ramp 5.8. When the ramp get lower angle and goes back to the left, follow it 5.7 up to the third bolt. The distance between the second and third bolt is about 35-40 feet. After clipping the bolt, climb the wave in the slab 5.9. Once over the wave, clip the last bolt and run it out to the anchor (long runout).
The descent can be accomplished with 2 ropes or using one to get to the middle anchor on "Buck Fever" and then rapping to the ground from there.
This is a serious face route. I would only recommend it to someone who is comfortable to 7/8 way above pro. I gave it 2 stars; one for the perfect rock and the second because I really like the old school runout feel it has. This is not a sport route. Have fun ;-)
There isn't much to talk about gearwise on this one as there isn't hardly any gear: rour bolts in 150 feet to the anchor.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Sep 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R
I did not lead this, and I think it would be scary to do so. It is a fun top rope with a 70m rope.