Left Out 

This is one of the very few trad climbs I have repeated, I agree with TJ's statement, "a very good climb," and give three stars.

If you look at the picture in the description for Black track, this is the first, obvious, crack to the left.

I am not sure why this route gets an "R" I found it to be quite well protected. One of the best single pitch routes that I have done in the Park.

The route is definately not an R, I watched as someone placed a piece virtually every foot. You could have aided the route and felt solid about all the placements.

As for the actual climb, a great hand crack leads up to a right facing corner and continues on to a featured face. The climb is very sustained and very very pumpy! None of the moves stand out in my mind as particularly cruxy (as compared to the crux on Triassic Sands, for instance), or even very demanding technique-wise, but it is fairly strength intensive and there is a long distance between rests.

Overall, a challenging and very fun route!

Really great line- one of the best .10's i've done at RR as far as single pitch stuff goes.

A couple of comments:

1) This thing is not run-out, not even close. Pay attention to your protection opportunities in a couple of spots, but other than that, it eats gear.

2) I'm on the fence about the grade. It's not as hard as some .10d's i've done, but I still don't consider myself a .10+ leader, so maybe this one caters to my strengths. That said, if you've got plenty of juice and are decent at .10, hop on it- it's well worth it.

I agree with Vegastradguy. There is no run out on this route at all. You can sew this tighter that a pair of denim's.

anyone done the left leaning thin seam that is seen in the opening photo? beautiful moves and aesthetically pleasing variation! I'm not sure if it makes it harder or easier though.

I've taken the 'R' out of the rating. The reason it was there in the first place was the Swain guide gave it an R. I never thought it deserved the danger rating , but didn't want to sandbag anyone when safety is concerned.
It appears that others agree with the saftey of this route so the R has been removed.

I think you belayed me for that variation Senior Wilson... I thought that it had a bolt protected 10d/11a move. We started right of the bolt line (red tri-cam) following the left trending seam up to the second bolt and traversed left into the start of the left out crack, slammed in a 1/2 inch piece and finished 'left out'. Way aesthetic. If you guys don't dig the original start this way is extremely well protected and adds a nice tension move to an awesome trad line! I LOVE this climb! More thuggish than technical, it's all there. Great in summer...

It appears that a swift may be nesting in the crack on this route at this time. I saw it fly out while I was belaying my partner on another route. Just a heads-up for anyone leading this route for the next few weeks that there is the possibility of a surprise.

Lead as an on-sight 5/9/2011. IMO, a tad light for the grade. The sequence is too easy to read and the holds are too positive to warrant a 10d rating. I'd go with 10c. Still an excellent route.

The variation Jon's talking about is an old Bob Rotert line. Can't remember who he put it up with, maybe John Long? In any case that's what's up with the line, not a new variation, as the bolt would indicate.

Fun climb, very sporty moves.