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 ADVANCED
Far Rock
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Gollum 
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Look Mom, No Friends 

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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?, pre-1981
Page Views: 186
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Mar 23, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Left or Right (5.8), Far Rock, Tres Piedras, NM.
Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This decent little route combines some crack and face moves. It appears that any of the various crack/seam systems will take you to the top. I'm guessing the "Left or Right" crux that's mentioned in the 1981 guide refers to the exit move around the wedged boulder at the top. This route is also described in the 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide. Maybe kind of soft for 5.8, but I left the rating as described in the original guides.


Location 

Ascend the right-hand side of the south-facing wall just east of the Great Crevice.
Walk off the north side.


Protection 

Standard trad rack of single cams and nuts. A #1 and a #2 tricam can also be useful. Gear anchor on top.



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