|Left of Ladder
Jamie McNeill leads the FA of Dividing Line, a str...
South-facing ridgeline along the summit cliff. This is a long section of crags interspersed with tight balsam/spruce ledges and gullies, west of the 25' tall summit ladder.
The cliffs get plenty of sunshine and, with the exception of Right of the Ladder, dry up fastest after a rain.
The rock conditions are definitely alpine however, with weathered rock on every route, and loose rock potential on most.
The rock is predominantly a compact gneiss.
There are some ice runnels along these cliffs, but the sun tends to bake them out quickly.
Take the trail leading directly to the summit until arriving at the best approach for your desired route, 40 mins. to an hour.
Most of the climbs here are approached via rappel or walk-down from the top, or a short bushwhack starting at the last level spot below the tall ladder. A few routes are better accessed via bushwhacking to their bases from just above the lower, short ladder (~8' tall) on the trail.
Descend either via rappel or get to the summit ridge trail.
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: ... : Left of Ladder
Climb short ramp to bulging face. Pass this via a fist/offwidth crack running slightly left to easier ground, then step up right and climb the striking handcrack running through the steep headwall. Belay on the large, sloping ledge.P2: Scramble up easy fourth/fifth class rock to the top. Harder options lie to the right....[more] Browse More Classics in NY
|Comments on Left of Ladder
Aug 7, 2012
After hiking to the summit, we made the rappel down into the climbs just southeast of "Thank You Cindy" -- 60 meter rope should be sufficient to reach base of rock (leaving a short steep scramble down thru trees + brush).
We found the rappel by walking northwest from the summit on the main trail for about 150-250 feet. At a rock outcrop viewpoint, we went down toward the top of the cliff, first on the south side of the outcrop, then like ten feet thru low bushes to find a rope around tree with two carabiners.
Approach hike -- about 1100-1200 vertical feet of hiking up the shortest marked trail to the summmit of Crane Mt from the main trailhead parking at the end of the road - (horizontal distance around a mile).
Just a few feet southeast (climbers Right) from the bottom of the rappel is the start of an obvious diagonal crack that crosses the rappel line. We climbed it, pretty protectable, with some interesting moves, felt easier than "Thank You Cindy".
(For another route idea nearby, see Comment under "Thank You Cindy")
I think the top anchor for this rappel is about 40-60 feet southeast (climbers Right) from the top of the route "Thank You Cindy".
location of top of rappel:
latitude/longitude approximate: (N43.54519 W73.96340)
UTM approximate: 18T 583741 4821882