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 ADVANCED
Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bullet T 
Cleft, The T 
East Ridge 
Englishman's Route 
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress 
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T 
Left of Cleft 
Slit, The T 
Tyndall Gully 
Unsorted Routes:

Left of Cleft 

M4 Steep Snow

   
Type:  Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 4 pitches, 900', Grade II
Consensus: M3-4 [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Late Winter, Early Spring
Page Views: 468
Submitted By: Andy Hansen on May 17, 2013

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Left Cleft is in red. The Cleft is in black.

Description 

Left Cleft is a scrappy mixed line on Hallett Peak's eastern flank. It is, as stated in the name, to the left of The Cleft. I believe this route would be superior (than the conditions in which we found it) in late spring (i.e. March or April). The crux pitch is pretty engaging and sustained throughout its duration. This route can be climbed quite quickly. Brent and I did it in under three hours.

Approach as for Hallett Couloir or The Cleft. Before reaching The Cleft (a narrow couloir roughly 200' to the left of Hallett Couloir) head up a broader couloir for 400' aiming for a steep, rock groove.

P1: Climb the broad snow filled couloir for roughly 400'. We climbed this unroped. Moderate Snow. Belay at the base of the steep rock groove.

P2: Fire up the groove. In late Spring, this would likely be filled with a small amount of ice. We found it in pretty sloppy, dirty conditions. The climbing is not extremely strenuous but there is quite a bit of loose rock but the pro is adequate. Belay at the top of the gendarme to the left of the obvious snow couloir to the right, 190', M4 (R?)

P3: This pitch is shared with The Cleft though belaying at the gendarme will significantly reduce the length of the pitch. Step right into the couloir and move up towards the obvious roof. Pull through the roof on turf sticks and stemming. Once over the roof, continue climbing to the right of a rock buttress, 160', M2.

P4: Continue up on steep snow to the summit, 120'.

Descent: Hallett Couloir.

Protection 

Single rack to #3 Camalot. Knifeblades may be handy in the crux pitch.


Photos of Left of Cleft Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch two groove. This is a sustained groove with ...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch two groove. This is a sustained groove with ...
Brent approaching the crux groove.
Brent approaching the crux groove.
This is Brent at the gendarme belay at the top of ...
This is Brent at the gendarme belay at the top of ...
Here's Brent at the last belay. Steep snow climbin...
Here's Brent at the last belay. Steep snow climbin...

Comments on Left of Cleft Add Comment
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By Ben Collett
May 19, 2013

This is a route that Eli Helmuth calls Left of the Cleft on his website. I thought it was a pretty decent route. To add a little more interest, one can approach the good pitch from directly below up some turfy goodness.