Left of Cleft  5.9+

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  George Bracksieck on Dec 30, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

GB leading Left of the Cleft on Sept. 2, 2010. Pho...

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Climb along right-leaning, small, fragile flake and place a cam. Move up, then traverse right to a short, right-leaning crack. Climb the crack to its end, near the Cleft. Move left and up, into the longer, right-leaning crack (on which I am visible in the photo). This crack is thin at first, then steepens awkwardly right (crux, wide hands) before it nears the Cleft. I continued up into the Cleft, to the same belay position that I had used in the cleft (by fixed pin and old sling). I led Ross Swanson up this on Sept. 2, 2010.

Location 

This is on the slab, just left of the Cleft. We rapped from a sling that we left, left of the Cleft.

Protection 

SR. I wished I had doubles of #1-3 Camalots and double ropes.