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This climb is listed in Eric's Desert Rock as II 5.9, A1+. It is actually I 5.9. (Although I'm sure you could aid off the drilled angle and call it A1+ if you wish.). When we did the climb, there was a drilled hole for a piton (which was missing)and that was the aid move. We inserted a piton in the hole (and left it ), free climbing past it (At 5.9), and went to the summit. It's a summit, an easy tick, and fun enough. There is a route on the Right Teste, for you can see a rap anchor directly across while you are climbing the Left one.
2.8 miles past Courthouse Wash...it's on the left, just behind and right of the weenie shaped Phallus formation.
Double set of cams should do.
taylor at the crux
|By jason malczyk|
From: General Delivery
Jul 13, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
There are two bolts and a baby angle protecting the last moves to the left summit. The right summit has a piton and a bolt with no hanger on the top of it.
|By paul bucher|
From: moab, utah
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
didn't see any bolts. did see empty holes. three pins (and pro) protect the moves to the top. good anchors on top. fun, quick and fairly easy for the grade. beware of rope drag. i had a ton and i used long runners. good climb