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The Testes
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Left Nut T 
Right Nut, The T 

Left Nut 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Cam Burns, Ann Robertson, Mar, 1993
Page Views: 1,321
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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between nuts

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>


This climb is listed in Eric's Desert Rock as II 5.9, A1+. It is actually I 5.9. (Although I'm sure you could aid off the drilled angle and call it A1+ if you wish.). When we did the climb, there was a drilled hole for a piton (which was missing)and that was the aid move. We inserted a piton in the hole (and left it ), free climbing past it (At 5.9), and went to the summit. It's a summit, an easy tick, and fun enough. There is a route on the Right Teste, for you can see a rap anchor directly across while you are climbing the Left one.


2.8 miles past Courthouse Wash...it's on the left, just behind and right of the weenie shaped Phallus formation.


Double set of cams should do.

Photos of Left Nut Slideshow Add Photo
George Armstrong on Left Nut. Photo by Todd Gordon...
George Armstrong on Left Nut. Photo by Todd Gordon...
taylor at the crux
taylor at the crux
Rappelling from the top.
Rappelling from the top.

Comments on Left Nut Add Comment
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By jason malczyk
From: General Delivery
Jul 13, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There are two bolts and a baby angle protecting the last moves to the left summit. The right summit has a piton and a bolt with no hanger on the top of it.
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Sep 29, 2010

ha ha! someone actually repeated this? people are crazy.....
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

didn't see any bolts. did see empty holes. three pins (and pro) protect the moves to the top. good anchors on top. fun, quick and fairly easy for the grade. beware of rope drag. i had a ton and i used long runners. good climb
By Michael Colby
From: Boulder, CO
May 21, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed on 5/19/2014. Easily protect-able until the chimney. The three pitons are there after exiting the chimney. Two bolt anchor off the top with rap rings. The left bolt on the rap station is loose and should be replaced. Stayed in the shade until early afternoon. Tons of rope drag and windy, made communication difficult. But amazing views from the top!
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