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The Testes
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Left Nut T 
Right Nut, The T 

Left Nut 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Cam Burns, Ann Robertson, Mar, 1993
Page Views: 1,380
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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between nuts

  • Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    This climb is listed in Eric's Desert Rock as II 5.9, A1+. It is actually I 5.9. (Although I'm sure you could aid off the drilled angle and call it A1+ if you wish.). When we did the climb, there was a drilled hole for a piton (which was missing)and that was the aid move. We inserted a piton in the hole (and left it ), free climbing past it (At 5.9), and went to the summit. It's a summit, an easy tick, and fun enough. There is a route on the Right Teste, for you can see a rap anchor directly across while you are climbing the Left one.


    2.8 miles past Courthouse's on the left, just behind and right of the weenie shaped Phallus formation.


    Double set of cams should do.

    Photos of Left Nut Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: George Armstrong on Left Nut. Photo by Todd Gordon...
    George Armstrong on Left Nut. Photo by Todd Gordon...
    Rock Climbing Photo: taylor at the crux
    taylor at the crux
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rappelling from the top.
    Rappelling from the top.

    Comments on Left Nut Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By jason malczyk
    From: General Delivery
    Jul 13, 2007
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    There are two bolts and a baby angle protecting the last moves to the left summit. The right summit has a piton and a bolt with no hanger on the top of it.
    By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
    Sep 29, 2010

    ha ha! someone actually repeated this? people are crazy.....
    By paul bucher
    From: moab, utah
    Sep 24, 2012
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

    didn't see any bolts. did see empty holes. three pins (and pro) protect the moves to the top. good anchors on top. fun, quick and fairly easy for the grade. beware of rope drag. i had a ton and i used long runners. good climb
    By Michael Colby
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 21, 2014
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Climbed on 5/19/2014. Easily protect-able until the chimney. The three pitons are there after exiting the chimney. Two bolt anchor off the top with rap rings. The left bolt on the rap station is loose and should be replaced. Stayed in the shade until early afternoon. Tons of rope drag and windy, made communication difficult. But amazing views from the top!
    By Trevor Bowman
    From: Sheridan, WY
    Nov 3, 2015

    Fun, mellow roadside tower tick; well worth doing if you've done the more popular mini-towers throughout the park. As it didn't seem clearly mentioned here, the route is on face opposite the road. Also, a single 70m rope easily reached the ground and it looked like a 60m might work with stretch, but not positive on that.

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