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 ADVANCED
Y - North Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beastie Crack 
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) 
Flat-footed 
Hard Start 
Herb's Roof 
Hessing Route 
Inside Dihedral 
Left Mother 
Less-Hard Start 
Lizard Man 
Middle Mother 
Nose, The 
Notch, The 
Open Book 
Original Open Book 
Porter Route 
Ramp, The 
Rigid Deffacator 
Triple Overhang 
Wisconsin 

Left Mother 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Len Margolin & Steve Schum, 1970
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 5, 2008
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Description 

Left Mother is the leftmost of the 3 good crack climbs in the Mothers area of the Y.
Climb choss to a solid block/horn, angle left to a wedged block with good hand jams on either side. The steep crux is from here to the top and follows the leftmost crack, which is just a little larger than fingers, through an overhanging face. Fortunately, the face is highly featured with small horizontal ledges and pockets.

This climb is a good one for a trad leader near their limit, as the pro is good, the crux is short, and the fall is clean.


Location 

The 3 "Mothers" climbs are about 40' right of Beastie Crack on the north wall of the 'Y', on a clean steep section of rock. It is just a little bit before the waterfall starts.


Protection 

Rack up to a 2" cam; finger size cams are especially useful, nuts are good too. Don't bring micro nuts or microcams.
Save some stuff to build an anchor at the top, although there's a good block that you can sling with a long runner, or tie off trees with static line- always an iffy idea since many are dying.



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