Left Mother  5.10d

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Len Margolin & Steve Schum, 1970 Submitted By:  George Perkins on Apr 5, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Left Mother is the leftmost of the 3 good crack climbs in the Mothers area of the Y.
Climb choss to a solid block/horn, angle left to a wedged block with good hand jams on either side. The steep crux is from here to the top and follows the leftmost crack, which is just a little larger than fingers, through an overhanging face. Fortunately, the face is highly featured with small horizontal ledges and pockets.

This climb is a good one for a trad leader near their limit, as the pro is good, the crux is short, and the fall is clean.

Location 

The 3 "Mothers" climbs are about 40' right of Beastie Crack on the north wall of the 'Y', on a clean steep section of rock. It is just a little bit before the waterfall starts.

Protection 

Rack up to a 2" cam; finger size cams are especially useful, nuts are good too. Don't bring micro nuts or microcams.
Save some stuff to build an anchor at the top, although there's a good block that you can sling with a long runner, or tie off trees with static line- always an iffy idea since many are dying.