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 ADVANCED
Y - North Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beastie Crack T,TR 
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 
Flat-footed T,TR 
Hard Start TR 
Herb's Roof T,TR 
Hessing Route T,TR 
Inside Dihedral T,TR 
Left Mother T,TR 
Less-Hard Start T,TR 
Lizard Man T 
Middle Mother T,TR 
Nose, The TR 
Notch, The T,TR 
Open Book T,TR 
Original Open Book T,TR 
Porter Route T 
Ramp, The T,TR 
Rigid Deffacator T 
Triple Overhang T,TR 
Wisconsin T,TR 

Left Mother 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Len Margolin & Steve Schum, 1970
Page Views: 213
Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Left Mother is the leftmost of the 3 good crack climbs in the Mothers area of the Y.
Climb choss to a solid block/horn, angle left to a wedged block with good hand jams on either side. The steep crux is from here to the top and follows the leftmost crack, which is just a little larger than fingers, through an overhanging face. Fortunately, the face is highly featured with small horizontal ledges and pockets.

This climb is a good one for a trad leader near their limit, as the pro is good, the crux is short, and the fall is clean.

Location 

The 3 "Mothers" climbs are about 40' right of Beastie Crack on the north wall of the 'Y', on a clean steep section of rock. It is just a little bit before the waterfall starts.

Protection 

Rack up to a 2" cam; finger size cams are especially useful, nuts are good too. Don't bring micro nuts or microcams.
Save some stuff to build an anchor at the top, although there's a good block that you can sling with a long runner, or tie off trees with static line- always an iffy idea since many are dying.


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