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Starting the crack to the left of the bolts.
This is a variation of Tool King
that had been previously done. I was surprised at how perfect and solid the upper crack was.
Start up Tool King
or the crack and slab to the left and reach a ledge up and left of the 3rd bolt of Tool King
. Traverse a few feet left to a very solid handcrack (gold-blue Camalot) and use a long sling to keep the rope somewhat straight. Continue up on 3" gear to the top, where a ledge is reached a few meters left of the Tool King
anchors. Place gear and traverse right to the anchors (bolt and chain) to retreat.
3 bolts & hand-sized gear + a few longer slings.
By Jay Eggleston
Mar 29, 2013
I think climbing the crack at the bottom is the best way to do the route. The bolts will work, but climbing the crack keeps the rope in a straight line and the bottom crack is not too hard. I think I placed a #1 Camalot and a #0.5 Camalot.