|The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
This is a variation of Tool King that had been previously done. I was surprised at how perfect and solid the upper crack was.
Start up Tool King or the crack and slab to the left and reach a ledge up and left of the 3rd bolt of Tool King. Traverse a few feet left to a very solid handcrack (gold-blue Camalot) and use a long sling to keep the rope somewhat straight. Continue up on 3" gear to the top, where a ledge is reached a few meters left of the Tool King anchors. Place gear and traverse right to the anchors (bolt and chain) to retreat.
Start on or just left of Tool King.
3 bolts & hand-sized gear + a few longer slings.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Mar 29, 2013
I think climbing the crack at the bottom is the best way to do the route. The bolts will work, but climbing the crack keeps the rope in a straight line and the bottom crack is not too hard. I think I placed a #1 Camalot and a #0.5 Camalot.