2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This is a variation of Tool King that had been previously done. I was surprised at how perfect and solid the upper crack was.
Start up Tool King or the crack and slab to the left and reach a ledge up and left of the 3rd bolt of Tool King. Traverse a few feet left to a very solid handcrack (gold-blue Camalot) and use a long sling to keep the rope somewhat straight. Continue up on 3" gear to the top, where a ledge is reached a few meters left of the Tool King anchors. Place gear and traverse right to the anchors (bolt and chain) to retreat.
I think climbing the crack at the bottom is the best way to do the route. The bolts will work, but climbing the crack keeps the rope in a straight line and the bottom crack is not too hard. I think I placed a #1 Camalot and a #0.5 Camalot.