Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Industrial Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belly Up 
Belly Up Variation 
Blow Chow 
Darker is Better 
Fast Boat to China 
Flight 67 to Stockholm 
Forgotten Names 
Heidi Hi 
Industrial Disease aka Dead Moonies Don't Sell Flowers 
John Roskelly Show or Polyvinyl Chloride, The 
Left-Hand Monkey Wrench 
Nipple Phyle 
Noodle Factory 
Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags 
Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" 
Scarlett's Pulse 
Take Flight 
Thunderbird aka Light Beer 
Unknown 5.8 AKA Top Rope Face One 
What Would Jesus Bolt 

Left-Hand Monkey Wrench 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 980
Submitted By: Randy Carmichael on Jul 28, 2002
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Industrial Buttress.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is a little tricky to find; it is left of "Polyvinyl Chloride" and right of "The John Roskelly Show". Standing at the base of the climb you will see the "Left-Hand Monkey Wrench" crack, which starts out as a broken crack going straight up; the crack angles right, then becomes cleaner as it follows a left facing dihedral at the top of the crag. Standing at the base, you can also see a bolt on "The John Roskelly Show" arete about 20 feet up and to your left. About 10 feet to your right and 10 feet up is a faded O.C. painted on the wall. Towards the top of the crack, a block separates this left facing dihedral from the cleaner, right-facing dihedral, which is "Polyvinyl Chloride".

Start by climbing the broken crack. You will then negotiate a couple of ledges with interesting mantel moves, which may be the crux for some. When you reach the cleaner crack in the left facing dihederal, the climbing becomes slightly overhung. The crux for me was in the middle of the dihederal. Past this point, there are a couple of easy moves to the top. As usual, watch for loose rock on top, and there are plenty of wide cracks available to setup a bomber anchor for the belay.

This climb would not be a good first 5.7 trad lead, because several sections of the climb, including the cruxes, are protected with marginal small stoppers.


Protection 

CAMs to 3.5" and small stoppers. There is no fixed anchor. The larger CAMs are used for the anchor.



Photos of Left-Hand Monkey Wrench Slideshow Add Photo
A good picture of the route.  (The rope is hanging on it.)
BETA PHOTO: A good picture of the route. (The rope is hanging...
Looking down from about 1/2 way up.  My left foot is near bird crap.  I can see why Haas and Schneider don't recommend the route.  It does have bird waste on it.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from about 1/2 way up. My left foot ...
Comments on Left-Hand Monkey Wrench Add Comment
Show which comments
By Doug Redosh
Apr 6, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I would second the suggestion on the small stoppers, even RPs. One of the best trad routes for the grade at Table I have done, though admittedly have not done many.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Mar 20, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

You definitely place RPs on this climb. In fact, some of the hardest moves are protected by them. The steepest section is protected by #1 Camalots.