Left-Hand Monkey Wrench
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This climb is a little tricky to find; it is left of "Polyvinyl Chloride" and right of "The John Roskelly Show". Standing at the base of the climb you will see the "Left-Hand Monkey Wrench" crack, which starts out as a broken crack going straight up; the crack angles right, then becomes cleaner as it follows a left facing dihedral at the top of the crag. Standing at the base, you can also see a bolt on "The John Roskelly Show" arete about 20 feet up and to your left. About 10 feet to your right and 10 feet up is a faded O.C. painted on the wall. Towards the top of the crack, a block separates this left facing dihedral from the cleaner, right-facing dihedral, which is "Polyvinyl Chloride".
Start by climbing the broken crack. You will then negotiate a couple of ledges with interesting mantel moves, which may be the crux for some. When you reach the cleaner crack in the left facing dihederal, the climbing becomes slightly overhung. The crux for me was in the middle of the dihederal. Past this point, there are a couple of easy moves to the top. As usual, watch for loose rock on top, and there are plenty of wide cracks available to setup a bomber anchor for the belay.
This climb would not be a good first 5.7 trad lead, because several sections of the climb, including the cruxes, are protected with marginal small stoppers.
CAMs to 3.5" and small stoppers. There is no fixed anchor. The larger CAMs are used for the anchor.
BETA PHOTO: A good picture of the route. (The rope is hanging...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from about 1/2 way up. My left foot ...
|Comments on Left-Hand Monkey Wrench
|By Doug Redosh|
Apr 6, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
I would second the suggestion on the small stoppers, even RPs. One of the best trad routes for the grade at Table I have done, though admittedly have not done many.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Mar 20, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
You definitely place RPs on this climb. In fact, some of the hardest moves are protected by them. The steepest section is protected by #1 Camalots.