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 ADVANCED
West Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 
BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 
Hwan Kap T,TR 
Left-facing Dihedral T 
Shaft, The S 
Tin Can Arete T,TR 
Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 
Unknown 5 T,S 
Unknown 7+ T,S 
Unknown 9 T,S 
Unknown 9+ T,S 

Left-facing Dihedral 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: a rodent
Page Views: 228
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 26, 2013

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The left-facing dihedral.

Description 

This is an obvious left-facing dihedral in a recess on the right side of the West Slabs. It may be used to access some of the upper right pitches. It may be linked with the 1978 Bracksieck/Mallow route. It sort of reminded me of P1 of Bihedral in Boulder Canyon.

Pull aboard with face holds and the dihedral. From a good stance, you can get a #3 Camalot. The climbing gets a tiny bit more interesting as you work up into the apex. Another #3 Camalot or a #3.5 Camalot works. At the apex, you may find yourself a bit out from your last piece if you don't pay attention. A #0.2 Camalot fits in a crack on the right. A 48 inch sling works on a horn on the right. Gain the ledge above. There is a 2 bolt anchor probably 30 feet to the right.


Location 

This ascends an obvious, left-facing dihedral in a recess.


Protection 

#3 Camalot, a #3.5 Camalot, #0.2 Camalot, and a 48" sling worked. Extra #3 Camalots might be nice for the 5.6 leader.



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George pulls through.
George pulls through.
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