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Second Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angles Away T 
Back for Seconds T 
Big Top project S 
Chucky Cheese T 
Johnny Rotten T 
Journey through Gwondonaland T 
Left End Corners T 
Needs a Bolt T 
Slap Happy S 
Whatever T 
Unsorted Routes:

Left End Corners 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 725
Submitted By: John Peterson on May 30, 2009

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Left side of the second buttress - belays marked i...

Description 

An excellent outing on the far left side of the second buttress. This can be done at either 5.6 or 5.8, depending on the precise line. I'll describe the 5.8 line - the 5.6 line goes left on the second pitch and avoids the final corner (Resom).

P1: Climb up easy rock about 50' to a big ledge.

P2: Go right to a nice crack - Malloy incorrectly shows Chuck E Cheese going up this crack in the photo. The hardest part is getting started (5.7 or so). You can stay near the right edge of the face up higher for some excellent climbing. Belay at a large ledge (100').

P3: Climb an easy gully on the left. After about 60' strike out right to an obvious corner (the Resom Dihedral) and follow this to a wall at the top (crux). 180'.


Location 

Take the trail to the left side of the buttress. Move left to the edge of the rock before a minor buttress left of the main one - a large dead log marks the start.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Left End Corners Slideshow Add Photo
Hanging Chad in the final corner. <br />
Hanging Chad in the final corner.
Comments on Left End Corners Add Comment
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By TuFF GonG
From: gunnison Colorado
Jun 2, 2009

The last pitch you show is actually a variation called ransom dihedral. Left end corners ascends the easy 5.6 dihedral to the left.

By John Peterson
Jun 2, 2009

Right - as I stated you can keep this at 5.6 by staying left on P2 and P3. Not sure it's worth having two different routes in the database is all.

By Kyle Judson
From: Colorado
Sep 15, 2011

John, when you climb Resom Dihedral to finish, do you set up a belay at the bottom of the dihedral or belay from the spacious ledge after pitch 2? I've only ever done the 5.6 finish.

By John Peterson
Jan 18, 2014

I don't set an additional belay - there's no problem topping out from the big ledge.