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Holloway Mountain
Select Route:
Changling, The S 
Left Crack T,TR 
Left Face T,TR 
Poplar Crack T,TR 
Right Crack T 
Right Face TR 
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Left Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 541
Submitted By: Martin Jacaruso on Jul 25, 2009

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Left Crack, 5.9


A fun crack climb. There are some large flakes out to the right of the climb. Could do some fun stemming moves towards the top.


The crack just to the right of The Changeling on the main wall.


Small to Med. sized gear for Trad. Will need to build an anchor at the top or top-out and walk off. If top roping, need long static line to use trees or could place a #11 nut in the rock behind the top of the route, and use it for one side of the anchor.

Photos of Left Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Left Crack, 5.9
Left Crack, 5.9
Climber on Left Crack.
Climber on Left Crack.

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By b.t.miller
From: Charlotte, NC
Jul 14, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is an excellent crack and a stiff 5.9 on lead because placing gear in the upper portion of the crack system carries a full "pump" value.

A standard NC trad rack is ideal with 0.4 and 0.5 BD cam's coming in big handy. NOTE: there is a diagonal crack on the left 'open book' face that you can easily see from the ground. You can place a #3 BD cam in the bottom of this crack to help protect the crux.
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