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Although Rossiter rated this line and the one to its right more conservatively than I and my partner thought they should be, he also did not show where these lines started, and thus, we feel he may not have done them the same way or had complete information on these routes. We felt this one was 5.9, not 5.8...
Climb up a few flakes to the left-most of the two nearly parallel left-slanting cracks on the West end of the North face. Place [gear] and continue up and left until the crack reaches the arete. Move up and right to the right crack (5.8) and then to the top on face holds (5.6, PG-13) or left around the corner and follow a winding handcrack (5.8) left and then back right to the summit.
This route is the second crack down and left (East) of the NW arete of the Northern summit of the Jamcrack Spire.
A set of stoppers and cams to 4" plus some longer slings.
|By R. Wilson|
Aug 23, 2010
The new (and wonderful) Haas guidebook calls this 10a (I think). Also, the webbing (as described in Haas) is no longer around (except for a crusty yellow piece stuck under the chockstone) and there is an old, sunbaked cordelette just laying around... not much to count on up there.
My partner and I would have slung something for the rappel, but you can easily downclimb the short upper east face to a healthy Ponderosa and scramble north to a gully from there... just skirt a bulge to the north of the summit and head on down. The exposure around this bulge convinced us that a down-lead was the best option. Anyway, you don't have to rappel to get down.