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 ADVANCED
Practice Rock
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Dark Magic 
Left Crack TR 
Lieback T,TR 
Regular Route T,TR 
Thin Crack T,TR 

Left Crack 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,357
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The same for the first 20 feet as Thin Crack. Start out up the obvious crack running up and left. Move up to the top left corner of the roof. The large bulge to your left as you start is off limits, for those keeping score. Move out over the roof, and follow the crack up and right up to the finish.

Protection 

Long slings, and I mean long (2 fifteen footers would be perfect). For trad lead, cams below the roof, stoppers above.


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By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
May 18, 2002

This was my first trad climb. Pretty cool! There is an ancient cam stuck in the crack below the roof. Tried to yank it out, but it wouldn't budge. Oh well.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2004
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Good route. Felt pretty easy for a 5.9 rating though. Roof protects well. Definitely a lot easier than the "5.9+ thin crack" route that exits the right part of the roof.
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Mar 29, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Good gear makes this route a breeze. Down low, a couple of good wires and maybe a TCU in a pin scar. A number 3 camalot above and right of the overhang is bomber and a big stopper behind the expanding flake will sew it up well. Be careful not to set the stopper to deep behind the flake, you might not get it back. Feels no harder than some of the older routes in the 7+ range in BoCan (Owl, Cozyhang, Empor).
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Apr 1, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Though I don't believe in "+" ratings for 7s, Chan has it right; this route, really, is a breeze--especially for those with monkey arms (though my shorter partner crushed it anyway on lead). I call this down an "8," though, against the grain, I also upgraded the 10a on the right to 10b.
By Jim Fox
From: Westminster, CO
Oct 5, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fun climb. I thought the lower part was the hardest. Probably easier if you use the left bulge, but that is "off limits". The roof was pretty easy and the crack above easier than the start. Still felt like 5.9 to me or maybe 5.9+. Probably easier for climbers with longer arms.