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> B. Between Castaway &…
Left Center
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 3.1 from 9
votes
Routes in B. Between Castaway and Wizard's Gate
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Beside The Seaside T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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DuMais Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Green Wave, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hobbit's Way T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Left Center T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ramshorn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Ray Northcutt and Layton Kor |
| Page Views: | 2,957 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | s.kimball on Nov 6, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Julius Beres & Matt B: $2 timed entry permits issued by RMNP are definitely required if you arrive after 9a and before 3p.
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Description
Here is a fabulous summertime route AKA: the Northcutt/Kor. Four good pitches, easy to find, once rated 5.6?? in Fricke's old guide and done in 1959, indeed quite historic.
Way left of center, closer to Castaway Crag than the Central Buttress is a clean section of gray wall, to its left a continuous right-facing dihedral system.
1. Begin with a prominent, dog leg dihedral. Continue it as it bends back right past a soft iron piton than a long horizontal 5.7R stretch to either the Direct Starts anchors or higher from a wire sling flake, 5.9.
2. Faceclimb up into the crux stemming corner, (small stopper or cams), undercling the roof (3 inch piece) and make a exciting move onto a big ledge, 5.9+.
3. Jam a wide flake off the ledge, pass 2 pitons and the final roof, 5.8. Belay at a small stance.
4. Nice 5.7 buckets for 100 ft. to the summit shoulder. Walk off.
Way left of center, closer to Castaway Crag than the Central Buttress is a clean section of gray wall, to its left a continuous right-facing dihedral system.
1. Begin with a prominent, dog leg dihedral. Continue it as it bends back right past a soft iron piton than a long horizontal 5.7R stretch to either the Direct Starts anchors or higher from a wire sling flake, 5.9.
2. Faceclimb up into the crux stemming corner, (small stopper or cams), undercling the roof (3 inch piece) and make a exciting move onto a big ledge, 5.9+.
3. Jam a wide flake off the ledge, pass 2 pitons and the final roof, 5.8. Belay at a small stance.
4. Nice 5.7 buckets for 100 ft. to the summit shoulder. Walk off.
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