Left Banana Crack 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Jon Lonne, Dave Ohlson, and Martin McBirney, April 1976 |
| Submitted By: | Roger Linfield on Jul 31, 2006 |
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matt on left banana crack
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Description The Banana Cracks can be a good place to climb on a cold day, as the formation somewhat blocks out the wind. The Left Banana Crack is a fun, short, well protected finger and hand crack, with a mild overhang.
Location The Banana Cracks are unmistakable. They are about four feet apart at the start, and then diverge as the right one arches out under a roof. Scramble up from the left to get to the large ledge at the base of the cracks.
Protection Gear to 3 inches
BETA PHOTO: "Left Banana Crack" follows the left-hand crack in...
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Left Banana Crack
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| Comments on Left Banana Crack |
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 8, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b
| Short but SWEET. Excellent jamming leads to a nice stance below the crux - which is exiting the crack. A high hand jam and a long reach with the left hand to some edges will see you past the crux.
Felt soft for the grade for JTree.
Gear: two of each camalots #0.5-#3 (2 or 3 pieces are for the top anchor), and a green or yellow alien are plenty.
We descended climbers-right all the way to the base. |
By Nick Barczak
Feb 2, 2009
| I thought this climb felt more like 5.10a than 5.10c. |
By gregory huey
From: Pasadena, CA
Feb 6, 2009
| On a cool winters day these cracks - although they are pretty short - can be a nice place to climb in the sun and out of the wind. I would call this a 10c - the crux felt significantly harder than that on Tinker Toy or Taxman, which are rated 10b in my guidebook. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2010
rating: 5.9
| The easiest 5.10 at Jtree for a crack climber. The ease of grade, the simple and good protection, and excellent stances for protection and rest make this a great choice for the budding "5.10" leader. |
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