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 ADVANCED
West Wall Outer (Buckets to Burbank Area)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buckets to Burbank T 
Hanging Hungover TR 
Holds to Hollywood T 
Knob Cheese T 
La Bella Katchina T 
Ledges to Lawndale T 
Pullups to Pasadena T 
Unsorted Routes:

Ledges to Lawndale 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Swain and Dan Wirth, March 1985
Page Views: 865
Submitted By: M.Morley on Oct 11, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Setting up the top rope. Photo by Neale Brain

Description 

On the left side of the face look for two bolts high up, then draw an imaginary line straight down from the first bolt to the ground to figure where the route starts. Climb steep overhanging buckets (with great holds) to a horizontal crack and then follow the bolt line past a second horizontal to the top. This route is to the left of Buckets to Burbank.

Protection 

2 bolts, small nuts/cams in first horizontal crack, bolted anchor


Photos of Ledges to Lawndale Slideshow Add Photo
Ledges To Lawndale
Ledges To Lawndale
"Ledges To Lawndale". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Ledges To Lawndale". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Ledges to Lawndale Add Comment
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By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Oct 12, 2003

I forgot to mention this route is on the west face of the west horror rock.
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 15, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

It's possible to get a good 2.5" piece in the horizontal before the first bolt.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 3, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

did this again today......unlike last year when I felt it should be rated 5.9+, today it felt more like 5.9.......... The climbs near are deffinatly worth doing also. And for the faint at heart (Considering all the discussion going on about anchors, walkoffs etc...) this one has an easy downclimb. The anchors on top are not set up for rappeling.........
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 24, 2005

The first section to the first horizontal crack is great fun. The climb feels a bit dangerous after that. In particular a fall after clipping the second bolt could make you hit a ledge. I felt the climb much softer than 5.10, probably an 8 or a 9. This is the first time this thing happens to me at Joshua tree. I don't think I will repeat this climb. In the first horizontal crack there is a decent place for a #1 and a #2 Camalots. I didn't know how solid they were so after the climb, we tested the placements and they were bomber. On the second horizontal crack I placed a red alien, totally laughable physiological protection.
By Andy
Feb 9, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Kept expecting a 10a move, but didn't find one. However, I did do it on top rope. If I had done it on lead, I bet the moves would have seemed harder given the sparse protection.
By Jon Leicht
Mar 5, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Did this the other morning on TR. Very cold! Goofed of with a bunch of different starts. Never felt as hard as 5.10 only the topout felt a little thin, but my hands were numb...so i would say downgrade
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 14, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

This is a great climb with a good variety of moves. The start can be pumpy but doesn't have to be if you find the finesse moves, and is probably 5.9. The crux is definately the top out - thin and balancy. Best climb on this face, IMO.
By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Feb 4, 2010

this was an early 5.10a for me (apparently everybody thinks it's more like 5.9, but whatever) Did it in the real real cold with my little bro. Those horizontals take shit gear. i did not want to fall. i probably could have gotten better gear, but I was fiddling with some tricams (WHY?) and was generally displeased with the situation. I don't think i've ever used a tricam again.
By Eric Holden
From: Temecula, CA
Mar 4, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Loved this climb. A little of everything. Started with some heel hooks instead of just pull ups to get to the first crack. Highly recommended!