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 ADVANCED
Leda

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ancient of Days S 
Anubis S 
Battered Women S 
Blood Covenant S 
Bone-Yard PickN S 
Brass Monkey S 
Chip Away S 
Cracked Actor T 
Cumberland Blues T,S 
Eagle Wings S 
Fanfair S 
Free to Think T 
Girls Only S 
Good and Plenty T 
Gotten Goat S 
Grail Saga, The S 
House of Giza S 
Immortal Altar S 
Jody's Route (aka The Chris' Route) S 
Knock on Rock S 
Lock Down S 
Lolita's Deluge S 
Margin Walker S 
My Little Patina S 
Oh So Sweet T 
Old Foot S 
One and Lonely, The T 
One Percent S 
Optimus Prime T 
Ox Crack T 
Playground Medley S 
Psychotic Reaction S 
Relapse T,S 
Smoke S 
Speedway Boogie S 
TJ's Demise S 
University Route S 
Varmint S 
Vogen Slab S 
Walk By Me T,S 
Unsorted Routes:
Rest Day:
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Leda  


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Location: 35.2356, -85.2265 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 32,986
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 17, 2006
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Description 

Convenient location, easy approach, nice rock, a mix of trad and sport climbs -- what more could you want from a climbing destination? Well . . . in the case of Leda -- longer routes and more of them. But this little roadside crag is still a worthwhile destination when you have limited time or T-Wall is closed for hunting.

The history of climbing at Leda is not well documented, and little first-ascent information is recorded in any known guides. For years, the only guide to the place was some photocopied pages that referred to the routes by letters of the alphabet. The most recently published Dixie Cragger's Atlas shows the routes by their actual names; this is mostly based on a handwritten guide by Matt Sims. Probably the most current resource (other than this site, of course) is Micah Gentry's PDF guide, which can be found here. This appears to get frequent updates by the author; it also includes Lower Leda, located just down the road.

Like other crags in the Chattanooga area, Leda is a sandstone cliff. The rock quality is mostly very good, and a nice variety of routes can be found here. Many of these are sport lines, with a number of easy routes ideal for the climber making his or her first lead. Probably the most popular route at Leda is Jody's Route, also known as Chris' Route, an outstanding 5.10c/d either way you choose to call it.

There's also enough good trad climbing at Leda to make bringing your rack worthwhile. Nice routes to scope out include Ox Stone Crack (5.8+) and Cracked Actor (5.10).

Leda is on privately-owned land, and a one-time liability waiver is required. A short distance along the trail is a climbers kiosk placed by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition, where you can find the form to fill out and deposit in a holding box.

Editor's note on ratings: My experience of climbing at Leda is that many, if not most, of the easy to moderate routes are harder than the grade in the DCA. In some cases, I've taken the liberty of giving these routes ratings that I think are more in line with what you'll encounter at other local crags such as T-Wall or Foster Falls; in each case, I've also listed the rating given in the book. Anyone who disagrees with this rating method is welcome to contact me, or better yet, give it your own consensus rating.

Getting There 

From downtown Chattanooga, go north on U.S. 27 toward Dayton. Take the Chickamauga Dam exit; going left from the exit, drive almost three miles to the second traffic light. Turn left here onto Montlake Mountain Road. After passing a sharp hairpin turn, go up the hill to the second of two pulloffs on the right. Park here and hike back down the road a short distance to a trail leading up to the crag. The trail is steep but nice and short.

The roadside pulloff has limited parking, so if it's full, go back down the hill and park and hike back up. Further up the hill from the pulloff is a golf course/country club type facility; do not under any circumstances park there!

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.2 miles from here

40 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',5],['5.8',4],['5.9',8],['5.10',12],['5.11',6],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Leda:
Anubis   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Fanfair   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Walk By Me   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Speedway Boogie   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Free to Think   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Ox Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   
Vogen Slab   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
House of Giza   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Old Foot   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
TJ's Demise   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Optimus Prime   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Cracked Actor   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Girls Only   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Oh So Sweet   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Lolita's Deluge   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Jody's Route (aka The Chris' Route)   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Lock Down   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Varmint   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Margin Walker   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Psychotic Reaction   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Leda

Featured Route For Leda
Cracked Actor 5.10a

Cracked Actor 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  TN : Leda
Probably the nicest trad line at Leda. Great pro all the way makes some of the dicey moves more mentally bearable.Start as for Free to Think, bouldering up through the juggy roof to a ledge. Move left to the obvious crack in the left face; follow this feature as it turns into a short, awkward off-width. After negotiating the off-width, continue up the thinning finger crack, saving some reserves for a juggy but pumpy roof move at the finish....[more]   Browse More Classics in TN

Photos of Leda Slideshow Add Photo
Warm hands on a chilly January morning.  Nice fire...
Warm hands on a chilly January morning. Nice fire...

Comments on Leda Add Comment
Show which comments
By TKHouse
May 12, 2010
Since Dr. Topo went down, I was wondering if anyone had the .pdf guidebook mentioned in the area description. I did some searching and couldn't find it elsewhere online. I've got the DCA, but it would be nice to see some updated info on lower Leda.

Thanks!
By lid
Jun 7, 2010
Topo PDF
By TKHouse
Jul 29, 2013
I haven't confirmed this personally, but per a post on the SCC website, parking at the main Leeda cliff (in the road pulloffs) is now reserved for emergency vehicles.

seclimbers.org/modules/Forums_...

Not sure if parking lower down the road is permitted or not. Be careful heading up or down the road, people fly through there!
By Khowe765
From: Knoxville, TN
Aug 3, 2013
Yes, to confirm, all pulloffs are for "Emergency Parking Only." There is a small paved pulloff up the road directly across from the first entrance to the Montlake neighborhood, we saw a few climbers park there.
By Bobby Hutton
From: Tanzania
Dec 4, 2013
The SCC recently added a trail from the upper parking around the hair pin corner down to the right side of LEDA next to University route. For more info.
seclimbers.org/modules.php?nam...
seclimbers.org/modules.php?nam...
By Rockery Press
Oct 13, 2014
Leda Free Day Guide
Leda Free Day Guide


You can download a FREE Leda Day Guide from Rockery Press by clicking on the following link: rockerypress.com/free-day-guid...

Leda Free Guide includes:
  • Driving & Approach Beta
  • Rules & Recommendations
  • Several days of route descriptions and recommendations