|Smears for Fears Area
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Sal Mamusia, Bob Conz, "Frodo" Lybarger, Mike Ward, Paul Van Betten 1990|
|Page Views: ||863|
|Submitted By: ||John Hegyes on May 9, 2006|
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Getting ready to rap off the roof.
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This is a strange route featuring a fun, airy traverse with excellent rock.
Pitch 1: Rope up and climb the obvious weakness on the left side of the roof - a overhanging, juggy right-facing corner. There are two bolts here. Belay at the large pine tree.
Pitch 2: Traverse directly right, using a horizontal crack for your feet and disappear from the sight of your belayer. Continue traversing past a bolt to a small belay station (1 bolt, one fixed nut). Head up the seam here and follow it through a roof and past a fist crack to the anchor (fixed nuts, slings) at the top of the climb. Rappel once from here with two ropes.
Variation: From the small belay station (1 bolt, one nut) you can continue traversing and head up from another point of your choosing. There are at least three vertical cracks you can take to the top, each of similar difficulty.
The base of the climb is about 75 feet left of Smears for Fears. The prominent feature is the large black varnished face on the upper portion of the climb and the roof below it that towers over a pink rotten section. It is located just around the right side of Frigid Air Buttress.
Standard rack through #2 Camalot, emphasis on small gear.
Starting the lower traverse.
BETA PHOTO: Lebanese Jojo.
BETA PHOTO: Lebanese Jojo
BETA PHOTO: Lebanese Jojo P1.
Before the retro-bolting.
Almost across. Easier than it looks.
BETA PHOTO: Lebanese Jojo p2
|By John Hegyes|
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 10, 2006
This route has been retro-bolted. Sometime between last August and this month, two bolts were added to the first pitch, below the roof that is below the large pine tree, and one bolt was added about 30 feet into the traverse to the right.
I don't feel that the addition of these bolts was justified, as there is adequate protection in the vicinity of these bolts. The initial roof used to be exciting as you pulled the jugs through the improbable overhang, but this experience has been severely diminished.
Who added these bolts and why did they feel like they could forever change this route? Maybe they should have just stayed over in the Calico Hills where they can grid-bolt to their heart's content. In the future, the driller would do us adventure/trad climbers a service by leaving the bolts at home.
|By SexPanther aka Kiedis|
Jun 11, 2011
The retrobolts are long gone-can't imagine why someone would bother to bolt up a route like this. Very weird. Protected well and rock is good. I replaced the top webbing (probably original) with new stuff the ASCA sent me. This climb is worth doing-thin and interesting. Wendell told me that there are two different traverses that put you at the fixed anchor atop P1-the lower is the original, the one we did protected well with wires and C3s and had a patched bolt hole on the way across. If doing the lower traverse, you'll climb up to the hanging belay-if the higher, straight across to it.
|By SexPanther aka Kiedis|
Jan 16, 2012
The big tree above the steep crack on P1 has a pretty huge dead tree suspended in it. Knocking this off while anyone's below is a really bad idea. Heads up, the thing moves when the wind blows.
|By Joe Lee|
From: Las Vegas
Sep 30, 2012
Great route. Did it differently than described but flowed smoothly.
We started further left in a nice right facing corner (5.8ish). Well below the pines, it is pretty obvious when to start traversing right. Poor rock here but easy. Continue traversing way right to an obvious small left facing corner and up to a fixed anchor (one bolt and one nut). Watch rope drag.
Pitch two is stellar. Just keep telling yourself it's 5.9.
Caution on the descent. We made a double rope rap to the ground but our knot got caught in a constriction directly below the top anchor when pulling. Eventually we were able to retrieve the rope by pulling from a spot as far right as possible.
Standard rack. Two easy raps with a 70 should work.