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Routes in Smears for Fears Area
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Grumblefish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lebanese JoJo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lebanese NoNo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rojo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Romeo Charlie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Smears for Fears T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Sal Mamusia, Bob Conz, "Frodo" Lybarger, Mike Ward, Paul Van Betten 1990 |
| Page Views: | 2,372 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | John Hegyes on May 9, 2006 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This is a strange route featuring a fun, airy traverse with excellent rock.
Pitch 1: Rope up and climb the obvious weakness on the left side of the roof - a overhanging, juggy right-facing corner. There are two bolts here. Belay at the large pine tree.
Pitch 2: Traverse directly right, using a horizontal crack for your feet and disappear from the sight of your belayer. Continue traversing past a bolt to a small belay station (1 bolt, one fixed nut). Head up the seam here and follow it through a roof and past a fist crack to the anchor (fixed nuts, slings) at the top of the climb. Rappel once from here with two ropes.
Variation: From the small belay station (1 bolt, one nut) you can continue traversing and head up from another point of your choosing. There are at least three vertical cracks you can take to the top, each of similar difficulty.
Pitch 1: Rope up and climb the obvious weakness on the left side of the roof - a overhanging, juggy right-facing corner. There are two bolts here. Belay at the large pine tree.
Pitch 2: Traverse directly right, using a horizontal crack for your feet and disappear from the sight of your belayer. Continue traversing past a bolt to a small belay station (1 bolt, one fixed nut). Head up the seam here and follow it through a roof and past a fist crack to the anchor (fixed nuts, slings) at the top of the climb. Rappel once from here with two ropes.
Variation: From the small belay station (1 bolt, one nut) you can continue traversing and head up from another point of your choosing. There are at least three vertical cracks you can take to the top, each of similar difficulty.
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