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Diamond Point
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Can I Do It Till I Need Glasses T 
Crack A Smile T 
Dark Side, The S 
Durometer 64 T 
Fine Motor Control S 
Gift of Grace, The S 
Homer Erectus S 
Leave it to Jesus T 
Ovine Seduction T 
Raging Waters T 
Remission T 
Straight Up and Stiff T 
Strike A Scowl S 
Stupendid Animation T 
Supersymmetry T,TR 
Weatherman's Thumb, The S 
Zygomatic T 

Leave it to Jesus 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Cal Swoager, Stuart Kuperstock, 1985
Page Views: 8,650
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on May 15, 2007

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Kenton stylin' the LITJ. NRABS as hell!

Description 

This is one of the New River superclassic crack climbs. The wall just right of the arete with the bolted 'Gift of Grace' is cut by a thin seam covered with chalk marks. The climb starts with a scary and strenuous to protect crack leading to a ledge on the right. From the ledge follow a slightly overhanging crack (5.10) to its top. Step left to a ledge with a good rest. Veer left and up using a thin seam with single finger pockets (crux). Climb the seam to the large horizontal crack below the roof. From here either traverse to the anchors on 'Gift of Grace' and lower, or continue to the top in a shallow corner (5.10?).

Location 

The route is located at the Diamond Point. Get down Honeymooner's Ladders and head right past orange wall with Quinsana Plus. Squeeze between large boulder and the wall with Jesus and Tequilla. Continue along the trail past the huge overhang. With the overhang to your right you should see the face with Leave it to Jesus in front of you.

Protection 

The bottom first moves can be protected with a #3 or #2 cam and TCU's. On the easier section medium nuts are good. Small nuts in the thin seam. #1 and #.75 camalots are useful on the traverse. Place longer slings higher up on a climb or else traversing can turn into an epic. Bolted anchor.


Photos of Leave it to Jesus Slideshow Add Photo
Moving onto a rest stance. October, 2006.
Moving onto a rest stance. October, 2006.
Crux.
Crux.
"omnis viri caput, Christus est" (1 Cori...
"omnis viri caput, Christus est" (1 Cori...

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