Leave it to Jesus
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This is one of the New River superclassic crack climbs. The wall just right of the arete with the bolted 'Gift of Grace' is cut by a thin seam covered with chalk marks. The climb starts with a scary and strenuous to protect crack leading to a ledge on the right. From the ledge follow a slightly overhanging crack (5.10) to its top. Step left to a ledge with a good rest. Veer left and up using a thin seam with single finger pockets (crux). Climb the seam to the large horizontal crack below the roof. From here either traverse to the anchors on 'Gift of Grace' and lower, or continue to the top in a shallow corner (5.10?).
The route is located at the Diamond Point. Get down Honeymooner's Ladders and head right past orange wall with Quinsana Plus. Squeeze between large boulder and the wall with Jesus and Tequilla. Continue along the trail past the huge overhang. With the overhang to your right you should see the face with Leave it to Jesus in front of you.
The bottom first moves can be protected with a #3 or #2 cam and TCU's. On the easier section medium nuts are good. Small nuts in the thin seam. #1 and #.75 camalots are useful on the traverse. Place longer slings higher up on a climb or else traversing can turn into an epic.
Kenton stylin' the LITJ. NRABS as hell!
"omnis viri caput, Christus est" (1 Corinthians 11...
|Comments on Leave it to Jesus
|By Jeremy Steck|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 8, 2008
Some notes on the climb: This easily protects with a set of stoppers, I only placed 1 cam (yellow alien on the traverse), and I tend to sew it up! All the placements are textbook. Also, this climb is likely harder for someone shorter. I'm 5'11, and I could reach most of the key holds and avoided the chalked up intermediates. I can see why some shorter folks that I know had more difficulty with this route.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
I disagree with the route description calling the opening moves a "hand crack." There is maybe one hand jam just off the ground, and that is it. The middle section took great 1 and 2 camalots, and at the middle rest stance you can sew up the seam with microstoppers. One of the best single pitch trad climbs I've done.
|By Daniel Forgeng|
From: Salt lake City
Jun 30, 2009
I'm 5'3" and didnt find this route to be at all height dependent. I remember getting through the long moves with some high backsteps. This is one of the best pitches at the New or anywhere really. Do it.
|By Sam Stephens|
May 8, 2011
This thing is beyond stellar. In your face climbing off the bat leads to slightly easier, but great climbing to a rest. Rest up and get ready to fire the last bit of difficult climbing to the jug rail and enjoy good holds and good feet to the anchors out left.
|By Alan Howell|
May 8, 2012
Truly a classic. Can't say enough about how sweet it is! Haven't returned for a repeat on lead, but had the opportunity to clean this after my partner led it. He started off fine, popped a wet foot at the lower crux and ripped wires all the way down taking a HARD grounder into the talus. Thought he was dead until he stood up, brushed himself off, did a quiet Yosemite Sam, jumped back on the wall and sent it. Was the most badass ballsy lead I've ever seen after taking a full force grounder. Totally dumbfounded and impressed. Kudos to to Fred Weigel on that day! Lesson learned, watch for the zipper on this rig. Place a small tcu asap.
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 20, 2013
Most ascents end at the anchors on the ledge which are also the anchors for the Gift of Grace. The original finish is beyond the ledge and is in Kris's description. A direct finish exists. At the end of the finger crack move left a short distance and pull the roof and follow the right facing corner to the top of the cliff. This direct finish is 5.11b by itself.