Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Morrell's Wall
Select Route:
Beat Feet T 
Epacondilitis T 
Jeff T 
Leave It To Beaver T 
Mutt T 
Sinbad (Variation) T,S 
Space Cadets T 
Tumbling Dice S 

Leave It To Beaver 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 1,117
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Jan 21, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
chimney pitch

Access: MORE INFO >>>


A great line hidden from sight. Technically a 3 pitch route it's best to skip the first pitch and link 2 and 3.
Starts in a wide chimney with a flake inside of it for good gear and perfect hand jams. About 35ft up exit left off jugs to a short corner. Above is a set of bolted anchors, skip those and aim for the furthest right crack which is actually a big flake that becomes overhanging towards the top, mantle where the crack dies out, take a breather, clip a bolt and surmount the easy final bulge to another bolted anchor.
Rap with one 60m rope.


Left of Mutt and Jeff in a right facing Chimney. Either climb P1 of Epacondilis, Mutt, or Jeff then look to the climbers left or scramble up and left from the base of these routes and behind a giant flake.


None bigger than #2 C4 Needed. I walked gear up the chimney part to the exit to avoid rope drag. Long runners are helpful.

Photos of Leave It To Beaver Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: overhung lieback pitch
overhung lieback pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Get in the chimney.
BETA PHOTO: Get in the chimney.
Rock Climbing Photo: second set of anchors
BETA PHOTO: second set of anchors

Comments on Leave It To Beaver Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ted Smith
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Nov 20, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

The chimney pitch might be 5.9+, but the top pitch is surely very stiff, even at 5.10 a/b. Definitely old school!
By JT Moree
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Oct 26, 2015

On the second pitch the 5.10 crack goes straight up but there is an easier line slightly to the left (5.9ish).

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!