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A great line hidden from sight. Technically a 3 pitch route it's best to skip the first pitch and link 2 and 3.
Starts in a wide chimney with a flake inside of it for good gear and perfect hand jams. About 35ft up exit left off jugs to a short corner. Above is a set of bolted anchors, skip those and aim for the furthest right crack which is actually a big flake that becomes overhanging towards the top, mantle where the crack dies out, take a breather, clip a bolt and surmount the easy final bulge to another bolted anchor.
Rap with one 60m rope.
Left of Mutt and Jeff in a right facing Chimney. Either climb P1 of Epacondilis, Mutt, or Jeff then look to the climbers left or scramble up and left from the base of these routes and behind a giant flake.
None bigger than #2 C4 Needed. I walked gear up the chimney part to the exit to avoid rope drag. Long runners are helpful.
|By Ted Smith|
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Nov 20, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
The chimney pitch might be 5.9+, but the top pitch is surely very stiff, even at 5.10 a/b. Definitely old school!