Leave It To Beaver  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 90 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Old School Submitted By:  Trad Nanny on Jan 21, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Get in the chimney.

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Access: MORE INFO >>> For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A great line hidden from sight. Technically a 3 pitch route it's best to skip the first pitch and link 2 and 3.
Starts in a wide chimney with a flake inside of it for good gear and perfect hand jams. About 35ft up exit left off jugs to a short corner. Above is a set of bolted anchors, skip those and aim for the furthest right crack which is actually a big flake that becomes overhanging towards the top, mantle where the crack dies out, take a breather, clip a bolt and surmount the easy final bulge to another bolted anchor.
Rap with one 60m rope.

Location 

Left of Mutt and Jeff in a right facing Chimney. Either climb P1 of Epacondilis, Mutt, or Jeff then look to the climbers left or scramble up and left from the base of these routes and behind a giant flake.

Protection 

None bigger than #2 C4 Needed. I walked gear up the chimney part to the exit to avoid rope drag. Long runners are helpful.