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 ADVANCED
Devil's Den Bouldering
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A Moment Of Light 
Advantageous 
Aretascious 
Arete To Arete 
Ashes To Ashes 
Bad Apple, The 
Big Ocean, The 
Doing The Dew 
Feeling For The Heavens (aka Slow and Pooky) 
Hug, The 
Individual Medley 
Leave It to Beaver 
Numb Thumb 
Pretty Bloc Swag 
Red 
Red Devil 
Red Right Hand aka Spitting Blood 
Scala 
Surreptitious 
Throng 
Tisk, Tisk 
Tradster 
Universal Socket (aka The Pocket Problem) 
Up in Smoke 

Leave It to Beaver 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Ben Fuller
Page Views: 2,782
Submitted By: Lanky on Apr 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Kyle warming up.

Description 

Start sitting on the right side of the boulder with a hanging, blocky arete to your left. Heel hooks and tension get you to a pinch and a sharp crimp. From here, make a big move and lots more tension lead to a slopey but solid topout.

Location 

In Devil's Den, head past the Up In Smoke Boulder and follow the trail towards the swampy pond. It will head down and right. At the bottom of that dip, take a left. The problem is on the water-facing side of a boulder right by the pond's edge.

Protection 

A couple of pads will help cover the rock in the middle of the landing. A spotter to keep you from tipping backwards into the swamp isn't a bad idea.


Photos of Leave It to Beaver Slideshow Add Photo
Lily Hallet (2011)
Lily Hallet (2011)
Dustin pulling through the bottom section.
Dustin pulling through the bottom section.
the beav
the beav
Old man Pete getting it done.
Old man Pete getting it done.
Sean whips out his melon
Sean whips out his melon

Comments on Leave It to Beaver Add Comment
Show which comments
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Apr 9, 2010
rating: V7 7A+

IMO this is probably the best V7 in the park.

I think we had 8 pads up there one day, but two pads will work fine if someone moves them as you go. I can't picture falling into the pond, but knocking your spotter into the water is a possibility.
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Sep 7, 2011

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 8, 2013
rating: V8 7B

This thing is very sustained and almost a bit more power endurance based. There's no shutdown move per se, but every move is relatively challenging and requires lots of tension. Enough so to the point that when you reach the finishing 'jugs', they don't feel quite as good as you think they should. This problem definitely isn't over until you're standing on top!

Outstanding climb. Definitely one of the best in the park.
By yann gauthier
Aug 17, 2014