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Sports Challenge Rock - East Face
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Leave it to Beaver (aka The Beaver) T 
Lobster, The T 

Leave it to Beaver (aka The Beaver) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Evans & Jim Angione, 1/78 FFA: (TR) John Bachar 3/78, FL: J. Bachar 1979
Page Views: 14,418
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

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Leave it to Beaver

Description 

This climb is the centerpiece of Sports Challenge Rock and is located two climbs to the right of Clean and Jerk (5.10c) just right of a large pine tree.

Boulder up a short face to a sloping ledge and from there make a series of technical, strenuous moves up an overhanging wall past a flake to a horizontal. From there the climb continues up steep rock past more horizontals to the top.

Usually (and easily) top-roped this climb is a great climb to pump out on, as it is a far cry from the usual slab paddling found in the Park. This climb makes a great lead/workout climb for those so inclined. A great climb on a great wall, the only thing it lacks is distance from the crowds.

  • Some good footage of John Bachar soloing the route back in the 1980's -


Protection 

A good selection of wires and cams to 3" will see you through to the top. Pro is good, but strenuous to place (especially onsight).



Photos of Leave it to Beaver (aka The Beaver) Slideshow Add Photo
Leah Sandvoss sending "Leave it to Beaver", 5.12a, Joshua Tree National Park, CA. Photo by Andre Kiryanov
Leah Sandvoss sending "Leave it to Beaver", 5.12a,...
Leave it to Beaver <br />Photo by Eric Draper <br />
Leave it to Beaver
Photo by Eric Draper
Sometimes Men Make the Strangest Requests...
Sometimes Men Make the Strangest Requests...
Leave it to Beaver, .12a. Joshua Tree, CA.
Leave it to Beaver, .12a. Joshua Tree, CA.
Josh does not look pumped after passing the crux ...
Josh does not look pumped after passing the crux ....
I managed (barely) to lead this classic route on my last Birthday. Photo by Andrew J. Blair, LE*.
I managed (barely) to lead this classic route on m...
Climber seconding on Leave It To Beaver (5.12a)
Climber seconding on Leave It To Beaver (5.12a)
Browning at the last move of the "crux". photo: R.Miramontes
Browning at the last move of the "crux". photo: R....
Konstantin Stoletov on "Leave it to beaver"
Konstantin Stoletov on "Leave it to beaver"
The cast of Leave It To Beaver
The cast of Leave It To Beaver
Jack getting ready to CRANK photo: R.Miramontes
Jack getting ready to CRANK photo: R.Miramontes
Early '80s Beaver. <br />photo by Mimi DeGravelle
Early '80s Beaver.
photo by Mimi DeGravelle
Leave it to Beaver
Leave it to Beaver
Comments on Leave it to Beaver (aka The Beaver) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 17, 2013
By Randy
Mar 19, 2003
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Robert, nice photos of the Beav...

One of the best routes in the Park. 5 of 5 stars.

By Gary Kleiger
Oct 29, 2004

I read in the latest Rock and Ice (Ethics issue) that someone chipped footholds into the Beaver. The quote came from Bachar. I have never been on this route, but can anyone confirm this? Man I hope that is not the case!

By Randy
Oct 29, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Chipped footholds is BS.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 13, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Was Bachar's solo ascent the FL indicated in the route's description?

By Randy
Mar 14, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

No. Bachar TR'd it free first. Lead it later and still later free soloed it.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 23, 2008

just awesome. pumpy.

if TR'ing, webbing's nice. we used extended the anchor with an extended cordellete and one 24" runner. takes #1,#2,#3 BD cams perfectly.

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Nov 1, 2012

Left a nut below the crux sequence. Now there are two fixed nuts - one below the crux sequence, and one above the crux sequence. Unless someone was able to clean it... I spent quite a bit of time trying to no avail.

By Jonathan Guy
From: Bay Area, CA
Jan 28, 2013

No fixed nuts as of January '13. Incredible route. I was impressed by how much tape gloves helped me on this one. Then again, I do use the double-karate-chop-hand-jam beta...

By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
May 22, 2013

Great video! Better in some ways than a lot of the new stuff coming out. ;)

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 17, 2013

Am I missing something, or does the route in the video of Bachar look nothing like the other photos that are posted here? He climbs a horizontal roof, and I don't see that in the photos or description. Is there another route of same name or am I just an idiot?

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 17, 2013

The roof in the video is More Funky Than Monkey. Leave it to Beaver is at the end of the video.