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 ADVANCED
(05) The Open Face Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Learning to Lead Crack T 
Opie Ate for the Masses S 
Rueben S 
Sideshow Rodeo S 
Tuna Melt S 

Learning to Lead Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Alexander Nees on Nov 5, 2007

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Description 

This crack isn't very diverting for an experienced climber, as it's very low-angle on HUGE face holds (no jamming required). But it's perfect for a first trad lead. The rock is good for Mentmore, being varnished inside the crack, there are endless hands-free stances to fiddle nuts into the crack, and it's short. Run it out or sew it up, whatever you feel comfortable with.

Location 

The obvious, right-leaning crack that splits the Open Face Wall from top to bottom.

Protection 

A small selection of trad gear up to about 2 inches ought to be fine. There is a 2-bolt anchor at the top.


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