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Learning to climb in Tonsai?

Original Post
Matias Cao · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

I've been doing a working holiday in Sydney for the past ten months to raise some travel money. Five months ago I started going to the climbing gym and now I'm totally hooked! In less than two months I'll be going to Thailand, and I was thinking of doing my traveling climbing oriented.

Because of my work I haven't had much opportunity to climb outside, only went top roping once really. I plan to do two or more days of basic climbing instruction in the Blue Mountains before going away.

My plan is to get some basic gear together (rope, quickdraws, etc) and go to Tonsai for a couple of months to learn and enjoy climbing. Of course at first I'll be looking at climbing mostly with guides.

It's silly of me thinking of going being a total newbie? Are there enough easy climbs? What would you guys do in my situation?

Thanks!

Eric Thomas · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 60

You can definitely hire a guide to set up top ropes for you. I'm sure they'll take you up anything you're willing to give money to. Since you're climbing with a guide, don't bother lugging any gear -- they have everything you need out there. Save your weight and some space for souvenirs.

If your intention is to learn how to lead or multi-pitch out there, I'd say don't do it. The climbing is pretty hard and anything worthwhile is more fun when you already have the technical + physical background. There's also a lot of sketchy stuff that you need to be aware of (which bolts are safe, will this ladder hold, etc.) Combined with the intense humidity, you're better off learning in a safer place like a gym or your local crag.

Leslie H · · Keystone · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 415

I climbed my first route ever seconding Devil's Tower.Four monthslater, I learned to lead in Kalymnos, Greece. Two years after that I taught my friend Emily how to lead belay in Tonsai, and then had her do her first lead there as well. Go for it!!! Just make sure the people you're with are super safe and that you have the knowledge to know what is safe and what's not.

Eric Thomas · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 60

This comment is assuming the OP is a male and the Leslie (second commenter) is a female.

I'll just say this: If someone with very limited experience goes there with the intention to only climb, you'll have better luck if you're a female. This is not a sexist comment, it's simply the truth.

I'm a guy and if you came up to me at Tonsai and said "I don't know how to lead belay and I'm not very strong", I would not climb with you since there's a guy from "XYZ country" who can lead belay and has the physical strength to pull the hard moves that Thailand requires. However, if you were a female, most guys there wouldn't care what your experience was, they'd take you up just to impress you...and...well...you know...hope to get lucky.

Is the inverse true? Do strong females with the technical background climb with inexperienced guys? From what I saw, no. Most women climbing there are not traveling solo and hence already have a partner (either with their boyfriend or girlfriend).

I don't mean to dissuade you from going to Thailand. It's a great place and you don't need to climb to have fun. But if you solely have the intention of climbing there, you would benefit greatly from gaining more experience/strength at home.

Neyma Jahan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 65

Tonsai is good for two types (as most of the stuff there is relatively difficult)

1- you can already pull 6c+
2- you are there for a few days and want to climb on the beach. In this case, hire a guide (in that area, all the easy/moderate stuff is overrun with guides

at your level id recommend to go to chiang mai and camp out at crazy horse, there is lots of easy moderate stuff and its uncrowded, less hot and you can take classes if you need from the local org. .

however if you are just set on climbing on the beach for a few months then you already know what to do!

Leslie H · · Keystone · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 415

I dont think it matters what sex you are if you're looking to lead or find people to teach you to lead belay. I think if you're going to Tonsai it would be foolish to not learn to lead there. There are PLENTY of easier climbs on the beach on the Railay side to try. I do agree, though, that learning to lead inside is more ideal, but like I said, I learned to lead in Kalymnos and I LOVED that experience and all I learned with it. If you're in doubt, hire a guide.

Helen Johnson · · Lander, WY · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

wooo go for it!!!!

I would say learn to lead in the gym before you go.

Once you get there you shouldn't have a problem finding wonderful people to climb with!. Just be up front about your experience, and I am sure you wont have a problem finding people to climb with.

I would say bring a rope and draws.

have fun!!!

(dont listen to buzz kill Eric.) just be smart and safe:)!

Fredz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 0

Possible, although not ideal for easier routes you're stuck with 123 and diamond cave, which tend to be very busy with guided groups. These also used to be the only 2 areas where you would still find expansion bolts, which are not safe on Tonsai. You want Titanium glue ins. Haven't been for a while, so don't know if this is still the case now.

Typically the guides on Tonsai do day or half day outings where they set up top ropes for a group of people. Most of these guys are not the sort of guides i would like to take a lead course from. Talented climbers, but limited technical background, safety awareness and teaching skills.

If you want to do a lead course talk to Wee, if he's still around. He's been aroun d for ever and seems more serious than most.

If you have time and some social skills you might find some tourist climbers to show you the ropes as well. Probably easier if your a girl, but not impossible for a guy. Me and my friends have taken some people out before and they weren't all girls..

always make sure your at least 3, so someone can watch you when you're learning to belay and be clear and open about your experience level.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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