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R. Downer on lead.
This route is on the obvious slab towards the north side of the Sunshine Wall. It starts about ten feet right of an obvious crack which runs through a small roof.
A large ledge is reached about 20 feet up. Either go left and scramble up to the ledge, or do a direct start with a bolt (probably 5.8). From the ledge, immediately clip a bolt. Then follow an insipient crack through bolts and occasional gear up the slab to a two-bolt fixed anchor. Rappel with either two ropes or one 60m rope barely reaches the upper ledge.
Mixed pro and bolts. 5 bolts (with an optional 6th for a direct start). Aliens and small tri-cams for gear. I used a red alien and a #1 tri-cam.
|Comments on Learning Curve
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 2, 2012
Great route. I think it's important to note that this climb starts up a crack near the center of the wall, and traverses right just before the crack ends, to gain a second crack that starts at that point.
|By Skylar Smith|
May 2, 2012
I would recommend doing this with a few cams. It's definently runout if you dont use them. You can barely reach the ledge (about 10-15 feet off the ground) with a 70m rope.
|By Walt Barker|
Jul 8, 2012
Very enjoyable route. Most would consider the bolts to be a bit run-out. Luckily, several excellent cam placements appear right when you need them. I put in a #1&2 C3, and several C4,s up to #1. Well thought-out route.