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Sunshine Wall Routes
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Learning Curve 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Henderson & Baker '98
Page Views: 6,121
Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 13, 2003
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R. Downer on lead.
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is on the obvious slab towards the north side of the Sunshine Wall. It starts about ten feet right of an obvious crack which runs through a small roof.

A large ledge is reached about 20 feet up. Either go left and scramble up to the ledge, or do a direct start with a bolt (probably 5.8). From the ledge, immediately clip a bolt. Then follow an insipient crack through bolts and occasional gear up the slab to a two-bolt fixed anchor. Rappel with either two ropes or one 60m rope barely reaches the upper ledge.


Protection 

Mixed pro and bolts. 5 bolts (with an optional 6th for a direct start). Aliens and small tri-cams for gear. I used a red alien and a #1 tri-cam.



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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 2, 2012

Great route. I think it's important to note that this climb starts up a crack near the center of the wall, and traverses right just before the crack ends, to gain a second crack that starts at that point.

By Skylar Smith
May 2, 2012

I would recommend doing this with a few cams. It's definently runout if you dont use them. You can barely reach the ledge (about 10-15 feet off the ground) with a 70m rope.

By Walt Barker
From: AZ
Jul 8, 2012

Very enjoyable route. Most would consider the bolts to be a bit run-out. Luckily, several excellent cam placements appear right when you need them. I put in a #1&2 C3, and several C4,s up to #1. Well thought-out route.