Learning Big Wall in Socal?

I'd like to climb The Nose, but have no experience with big wall climbing. I'm in socal and wondering how/where to learn so that I might get closer to doing the nose.

More specifically, I'm located a bit east of LA, but how do i get into big wall climbing if I don't know anyone who does it?

Go buy a book called "Big Wall Climbing: elite technique." Read that shit, if it's confusing (and it will be) read that section again, and again until it makes sense. Call your most loyal climbing partner to come hold your rope. Your going to have to buy him a 6er of his favorite beverage for this(unless he wants to learn, then your both in the same boat). Now go aid climbing.

I'm gonna assume you dont have aiders, ascenders or daisy's @ this pont, no worries. Find a straight in single pitch crack with a bolted anchor. Use your slings/runners as daisy's and aiders (48" for steps and 24" for daisy's). Tie some knots in them(3 or 4) and pick up fifi hook. That's the dirtbag setup. Alternatively, buy some easy daisy's (Metolius or Yates) and a cheap set of etries.

Aid climbing is really fkn slow, so when you belay tie back up knots (even on a grigri) and bring that book! Once you can lead a pitch fairly compentently go buy a pair of ascenders and practice jugging. Try not to jug on your workhorse lead rope if you can.

Oh yeah. Make sure the free route you choose to desecrate is not a popular/classic climb as you will get your ass chewed out if it is (rightfully so). Find some obscure thing no one will care about. Best of luck and "Your gonna die!" Sorry.... Had to.

Ryan Kempf wrote:Go buy a book called "Big Wall Climbing: elite technique." Read that shit, if it's confusing (and it will be) read that section again, and again until it makes sense. Call your most loyal climbing partner to come hold your rope. Your going to have to buy him a 6er of his favorite beverage for this(unless he wants to learn, then your both in the same boat). Now go aid climbing. I'm gonna assume you dont have aiders, ascenders or daisy's @ this pont, no worries. Find a straight in single pitch crack with a bolted anchor. Use your slings/runners as daisy's and aiders (48" for steps and 24" for daisy's). Tie some knots in them(3 or 4) and pick up fifi hook. That's the dirtbag setup. Alternatively, buy some easy daisy's (Metolius or Yates) and a cheap set of etries. Aid climbing is really fkn slow, so when you belay tie back up knots (even on a grigri) and bring that book! Once you can lead a pitch fairly compentently go buy a pair of ascenders and practice jugging. Try not to jug on your workhorse lead rope if you can. Oh yeah. Make sure the free route you choose to desecrate is not a popular/classic climb as you will get your ass chewed out if it is (rightfully so). Find some obscure thing no one will care about.

Here be a good guide: bigwall.com/aidguide.html

Might wanna pick up the 'Road to the Nose' book.

Off the top of my head idea for ya:

-Read a lot and figure out all the systems on the ground at home.
-Try it in the gym. Get the systems down. Get really efficient.
-Bolt ladder on Jesus Wall at Stoney Point, perhaps.
-Might wanna go to Riverside Quarry for aid.
-Do a bunch of clean aid.

You'll probably wanna do a few other walls before going up El Cap. South Face of Washington Column offers some options, and is easy to mentally break down. Doesn't require a portaledge. You've got South Face and Skull Queen, which are two that might work for you. A handful of other routes in the valley that would be good for early walls.

Also: mountainproject.com/v/where…

Chris Mac's "How to Big Wall Climb" book is bomb. Check it out.