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Learn to Bolt
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By Will Copeland
Oct 11, 2010
view off the 4th belay

Is there a company that teaches bolting a climb? I'd like to learn and have lots of friends who want to learn also but don't know anyone that knows how.

happy climbing, will


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By Tparis
From Pottersville,New York
Oct 11, 2010
fall foliage 5.7+ slab

Nobody actually places bolts. There is a bolt fairy who does it. Here is what you do, When you see a possible line, take a good hard look at it, envision all of the moves in your mind (maybe even clean it up and try it on top-rope). Then that night dream about the route. Go out the next day and it should be fully equipped. If not, try harder the next night.

ps-it only works if you believe


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By Evan1984
Oct 11, 2010

site search "bolting clinic"

In general, bolting know how is passed on from experienced developer to mentee. Try to find a local route developer.

It is my personal opinion that there should not be classes to teach these sorts of things because it would lead to overzealous bolting. It's one of those things that, when you are ready to be bolting, the opportunity will present itself.


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By Devin Krevetski
From West Woodstock, VT
Oct 11, 2010

Evan Horvath aka Evan1984 wrote:
site search "bolting clinic" In general, bolting know how is passed on from experienced developer to mentee. Try to find a local route developer. It is my personal opinion that there should not be classes to teach these sorts of things because it would lead to overzealous bolting. It's one of those things that, when you are ready to be bolting, the opportunity will present itself.



If you need to ask, you probably shouldn't be doing it.


dev


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By Jay Karst
From Golden
Oct 11, 2010
me <br />

The physical act of placing a bolt is about 10% of the knowledge required to developing a route. Am I the only one who sees the parallelhere between bolting and teen sex?! If you cant stop them @ least Educate them!


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By Eddie Brown
From Tempe, Arizona
Oct 11, 2010

devkrev wrote:
If you need to ask, you probably shouldn't be doing it. dev


+1


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By SKI
From Portlandia, OR
Oct 11, 2010
Descending the Underhill Couloir

Eddie Brown wrote:
+1


Eventually, everyone has had to ask. Don't pretend to be high and mighty here in a computer forum.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 11, 2010
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo

Contact the locals that are putting in bolts. Or, fly me out there and I will teach you. Put in 1000s and never had a failure. Many of them have been heavily tested. As people have said, putting in bolts is a small part of the route setting equation. If you really want to bolt new routes or replace old 1/4 inch bolts, contact the folks doing it in your area. You will learn a ton and you will have fewer prople bashing you here.


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By toddgordon
From Joshua Tree, California
Oct 11, 2010

Drill a hole, slam a bolt in the hole;...it's not rocket science.....now WHERE on the rock to put the holes/bolts and not piss off the local rock police.....now THAT is a different story....


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By john strand
From southern colo
Oct 11, 2010

The NZ Alpine club has bolting clinics.


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By Price
From SLC, UT
Oct 11, 2010

Will Butler wrote:
just wing it


And by your 400th bolt, you may have the thought, "Hey, should I use a torque wrench, or just tighten these suckers down as tight as my weak little arms can?"


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By Eddie Brown
From Tempe, Arizona
Oct 11, 2010

alpine affinity wrote:
Eventually, everyone has had to ask. Don't pretend to be high and mighty here in a computer forum.


It's not a matter of being high and mighty. If you have been climbing long enough to have the experience needed to place a route, you should know where to find the proper guidance for bolting.


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By Ralph Kolva
From Evergreen, CO
Oct 12, 2010

alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/2010/10/how-those-bolts-got-the>>>


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By Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Oct 12, 2010
Me and my Fetish I guess.. ;)

C'mon fellas.. at least he's asking first.


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By John Ross
From Wasatch Front, UT
Oct 12, 2010
FA of <a href='/v/gunner/106128521'>Gunner</a>, AF Cyn.

Learn this:
Rawl replacement photo guide
www.safeclimbing.org/education.htm

Before trying this:
www.camp4.com/rock/index.php?newsid=215
www.fixeusa.com/
www.fixeusa.com/guide_14a-gluein.htm
bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm


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By John Richardson
From Greenfield, Ma
Apr 20, 2011
brewfest!

how about wether or not you should be bolting a climb in the first place... if the route can go on gear, you shouldn't be bolting it at all.


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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
May 28, 2011
rockerwaves

Will,Like so many have pointed the mechanics of installing bolts is pretty easy (10%) but the other issues in route development=(80%)
You guys might think about finding the guy that's replacing the old suspect bolts in your area and offer your assistance as an apprentice. There is a lot of valuable knowledge to be gained from a close up examination of bolt protection placements on existing routes. I was contacted by a guy doing just that a while back and believe me I was stoked that he wanted to replace those old 1/4x 1 3/4" That I put in on lead so many years back.He also pointed out that one of those routes was a very good line but it was so run out that no one would do it.
He pointed out that with a couple more well thought out bolt placements it would be a popular classic.

I thought about that route and remember how I had to climb further than I was comfortable with before I got to a tiny stance that I could stop and hand drill a hole in the granite and place a bolt. It occurred to me that any one following that line will never know exactly what was going through my mind as I tap,tap,tapped that hole and the feeling of relief I achieved when I was deep enough to put a wired stopper over the drill bit to provide security if only a tiny amount. Then when that bolt was placed, moving away from it's safety into the unknown to do the same process again.

I agreed that if he wished to enhance that line he had my blessing.He sent me a detailed account of the process.

You would be doing the general climbing community a service.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
May 28, 2011
El Chorro

Price wrote:
And by your 400th bolt, you may have the thought, "Hey, should I use a torque wrench, or just tighten these suckers down as tight as my weak little arms can?"


So... what's the answer?


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