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Oct 11, 2010
view off the 4th belay
Is there a company that teaches bolting a climb? I'd like to learn and have lots of friends who want to learn also but don't know anyone that knows how.

happy climbing, will
Will Copeland
Joined Aug 18, 2009
91 points
Oct 11, 2010
fall foliage 5.7+ slab
Nobody actually places bolts. There is a bolt fairy who does it. Here is what you do, When you see a possible line, take a good hard look at it, envision all of the moves in your mind (maybe even clean it up and try it on top-rope). Then that night dream about the route. Go out the next day and it should be fully equipped. If not, try harder the next night.

ps-it only works if you believe
Tparis
From Pottersville,New York
Joined Jan 19, 2007
277 points
Oct 11, 2010
site search "bolting clinic"

In general, bolting know how is passed on from experienced developer to mentee. Try to find a local route developer.

It is my personal opinion that there should not be classes to teach these sorts of things because it would lead to overzealous bolting. It's one of those things that, when you are ready to be bolting, the opportunity will present itself.
Evan1984
Joined Aug 15, 2007
77 points
Oct 11, 2010
Evan Horvath aka Evan1984 wrote:
site search "bolting clinic" In general, bolting know how is passed on from experienced developer to mentee. Try to find a local route developer. It is my personal opinion that there should not be classes to teach these sorts of things because it would lead to overzealous bolting. It's one of those things that, when you are ready to be bolting, the opportunity will present itself.



If you need to ask, you probably shouldn't be doing it.


dev
Devin Krevetski
From West Woodstock, VT
Joined May 3, 2008
57 points
Oct 11, 2010
Me
The physical act of placing a bolt is about 10% of the knowledge required to developing a route. Am I the only one who sees the parallelhere between bolting and teen sex?! If you cant stop them @ least Educate them! Jay Karst
From Golden
Joined Oct 30, 2007
84 points
Oct 11, 2010
devkrev wrote:
If you need to ask, you probably shouldn't be doing it. dev


+1
Eddie Brown
From Tempe, Arizona
Joined Aug 13, 2009
1,012 points
Oct 11, 2010
Descending the Underhill Couloir
Eddie Brown wrote:
+1


Eventually, everyone has had to ask. Don't pretend to be high and mighty here in a computer forum.
SKI
From Portlandia, OR
Joined May 12, 2010
33 points
Oct 11, 2010
Contact the locals that are putting in bolts. Or, fly me out there and I will teach you. Put in 1000s and never had a failure. Many of them have been heavily tested. As people have said, putting in bolts is a small part of the route setting equation. If you really want to bolt new routes or replace old 1/4 inch bolts, contact the folks doing it in your area. You will learn a ton and you will have fewer prople bashing you here. 1Eric Rhicard
Joined Feb 15, 2006
8,670 points
Oct 11, 2010
Drill a hole, slam a bolt in the hole;...it's not rocket science.....now WHERE on the rock to put the holes/bolts and not piss off the local rock police.....now THAT is a different story.... toddgordon
From Joshua Tree, California
Joined Nov 26, 2006
10,174 points
Oct 11, 2010
The NZ Alpine club has bolting clinics. john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,279 points
Oct 11, 2010
Will Butler wrote:
just wing it


And by your 400th bolt, you may have the thought, "Hey, should I use a torque wrench, or just tighten these suckers down as tight as my weak little arms can?"
Price
From SLC, UT
Joined Apr 29, 2007
324 points
Oct 11, 2010
alpine affinity wrote:
Eventually, everyone has had to ask. Don't pretend to be high and mighty here in a computer forum.


It's not a matter of being high and mighty. If you have been climbing long enough to have the experience needed to place a route, you should know where to find the proper guidance for bolting.
Eddie Brown
From Tempe, Arizona
Joined Aug 13, 2009
1,012 points
Oct 12, 2010
selfie
alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/2... Ralph Kolva
From Evergreen, CO
Joined Jun 5, 2006
239 points
Oct 12, 2010
Me and my Fetish I guess.. ;)
C'mon fellas.. at least he's asking first. Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Joined Sep 13, 2006
1,168 points
Oct 12, 2010
FA of Gunner, AF Cyn.
Learn this:
Rawl replacement photo guide
safeclimbing.org/education.htm

Before trying this:
camp4.com/rock/index.php?newsi...
fixeusa.com/
fixeusa.com/guide_14a-gluein.h...
bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltD...
John Ross
From Wasatch Front, UT
Joined Oct 24, 2007
2,704 points
Apr 20, 2011
brewfest!
how about wether or not you should be bolting a climb in the first place... if the route can go on gear, you shouldn't be bolting it at all. John Richardson
From Greenfield, Ma
Joined Jun 2, 2009
66 points
May 28, 2011
rockerwaves
Will,Like so many have pointed the mechanics of installing bolts is pretty easy (10%) but the other issues in route development=(80%)
You guys might think about finding the guy that's replacing the old suspect bolts in your area and offer your assistance as an apprentice. There is a lot of valuable knowledge to be gained from a close up examination of bolt protection placements on existing routes. I was contacted by a guy doing just that a while back and believe me I was stoked that he wanted to replace those old 1/4x 1 3/4" That I put in on lead so many years back.He also pointed out that one of those routes was a very good line but it was so run out that no one would do it.
He pointed out that with a couple more well thought out bolt placements it would be a popular classic.

I thought about that route and remember how I had to climb further than I was comfortable with before I got to a tiny stance that I could stop and hand drill a hole in the granite and place a bolt. It occurred to me that any one following that line will never know exactly what was going through my mind as I tap,tap,tapped that hole and the feeling of relief I achieved when I was deep enough to put a wired stopper over the drill bit to provide security if only a tiny amount. Then when that bolt was placed, moving away from it's safety into the unknown to do the same process again.

I agreed that if he wished to enhance that line he had my blessing.He sent me a detailed account of the process.

You would be doing the general climbing community a service.

Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Joined Mar 16, 2007
4,261 points
Administrator
May 28, 2011
El Chorro
Price wrote:
And by your 400th bolt, you may have the thought, "Hey, should I use a torque wrench, or just tighten these suckers down as tight as my weak little arms can?"


So... what's the answer?
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points


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